Post
by mattyd » Tue Jun 12, 2012 1:15 am
I can't see anything wrong with what you have suggested. I would be wanting to ensure that the light of that little tank is bright enough to grow a good layer of algae on the rocks. If possible, maybe see if there is a Daylight 6500k bulb available that would fit into the hood.
Flow is good, but not always necessary. There are plenty of people who have successfully kept these fish without high water velocity. Personally I have one tank with similar hillstream loaches with a lot of water current, and another tank with very low water current. But in my later tank, it is highly oxygenated as I use 2x air-lifts to move the filtered water from behind a large sponge mattenfilter into the top of the tank. In both tanks I have a lot of light shining onto the rocks. Since it is a smaller tank, I would ensure that there is a lot of surface aggitation to make the water very aerated.
It is important to get fish that look really healthy. I've seen a lot of gastromyzon with what is known as 'patchy disease'. This is where their color patterns appear to be faded in areas across the fish's back. There is some information on this forum about this problem.
For feeding, get yourself a small amount of a few different types of feed. Since I am living in Australia, I don't know what brands are available where you are. However, I would suggest starting with a high quality algae tablet and also a high quality, high protein tablet -- at the least. Then get yourself two pepper grinders and place some of each feed into individual grinders. Once you have your fish in the tank, try grinding a small amount of the fishfeed into the water and stiring it in. If you turn the filter off for 5mins the crumbled feed should sink to the top of the rocks and the sandy bottom. If you feed each type 20-30mins apart you'll be able to tell if your fish prefer one type or the other. After a few months you'll be able to wean them onto other types of food.
I also highly recommend getting a colony of black worms growing in the substrate. They'll help polish off uneaten food, and provide the keen foraging fish a bit of live food every now and then. I've even seen my hillstream loaches eat live snails by bumping them upsipe-down and then biting the flesh of the snail. I feed my baby sewellia on snails that I squish into the rocks. They love it and polish off the slimy remains in no time at all. If you have too many snails, and too many worms, then you are feeding far too much.
These are only small fish, and will only grow to 4-5cm long. Even though the tank is small, you could probably increase your number to 5-6, or even 8 once you get the feeding sorted out. But it is important to get the feeding sorted. These fish are generally wild caught and are unlikely as yet to identify large sinking pellets as food (unless that is all they were feed in the petstore).
I would set up your tank with a layer of river sand on the bottom, and then 4-5 smooth fist sized rocks in the middle. Be creative, obviously. These fish can be territorial at times, so it is good to give many options for putting the shyer fish out of sight of the bossier individuals. Hence why I suggest to have a few large rocks. Then get a few smaller sized ones, and place them around the larger rocks. Then get a small handfull of river pebbles, and place them in areas as well. I recommend having a half dozen areas of just sand on the bottom. This will be areas where the fish can forage and 'stir' up the sand as they forage for ground up feed and the worms.
Do the above, and you'll have a tank that looks similar to what the edies of the mountain rivers in borneo would look like. There will be sand, and pebbles and a few larger rocks. All in about 30cm of water, between 23 and 29 degrees C, and under high levels of sunlight.
5ft long rocky hillstream tank - Sewellia lineolata and spotted... and lots (and lots) of spotted fry
8ft Clown loach tank: 30+ clown loaches, 10+ Yoyos.
6ft tank for 16x botia kubotai, 13x Striata, 6x Sidthimunki - I need more sids