minimum temperature for clowns and zebras?

[crazy loaches]

Hello all, I am new to this forum (but a regular at many others) and since I have a loach question figured I'd try here.

I am setting up a new tank, a 150XH. I plan to migrate pretty much everything from my 75G planted tank to the larger one including my loaches. I mainly have 2 species, clowns and zebras. Heating might be a slight problem so I researched the temps of these fish and get varying info. But most sites say min 75F for the clowns and 72F for the zebras. Is this about accurate? has anyone done any long term studies on clowns in less, like say 72?

The problem arises from the fact that the 150G is more than likely too heavy to be on my main floor, and instead will need to go in the concrete-slabbed lower level (family room). The ambient temp in that room typically never gets over 70F and often is around 65F, so heating 150 gallons 10 degrees over ambient might pose a challenge. Every effort will be made to retain heat though, including things like the use of styrofoam on the base and back.

And while I am at it, does anyone know if these fish are particulary sensative to varying temps? Trying to learn as much as I can before I setup the tank.

[Martin Thoene]

Hi crazy loaches, and welcome to LOL.

You are probably aware that Clown Loaches are quite susceptible to Ich.
One way to avoid problems is keeping them at a higher temperature than your average "tropical" fish. I keep mine at around 82.5F. I don't have striatas, but used to several years ago and they used to live with the same Clowns at 86F.

Keeping them as low as 72F would be inviting problems. I would look at a bare minimum of 78F.

Fish experience fluctuations of temperature on a daily basis in nature. Personally, I feel that too much focus is spent on having stable temperatures. However, I would not keep Clowns in a system that was averagely as low as you seem to be talking about because any dips would definitely put you into the danger area with these fish.

If you insulate the bottom and rear of the tank and avoid drafts which might pull heat away, using something like 3 x 200W to 300W heaters spread evenly through the tank, coupled with good water circulation (which you should have anyway with Clowns in the tank), you shouldn't have too many problems maintaining temperature.

Martin.

[crazy loaches]

Thanks for the advice. I am unsure on what it will take to keep the biger tank several degrees over ambient, but if you dont think it will be too much a problem so long as I take certain precaustions then I have no problem keeping it a bit higher. I just dont want to double my electric bill with 1,000W worth of heaters than run continously lol! I think the wider, deeper tank will have a better thermal coeeficient than the standard sized longer, skinnier one will. (its a 150G 4'Lx2'Wx31"T, I think most tanks around that size would be 6 footers).

My current setup is set at 77* and since the temp is now cooling in the fall and sometimes I forget to close the windows at night and it drops to the 50's, the tank has dropped down to 74* on many occasions. The oldest of my clowns I have had for just about 2 years and thankfully havent had any ick since before that time.

I am no ick expert but I thought the higher temperature just speeds up thier life cycle (for treatment) but wasnt aware that that was also a preventative measure.

Also, its not set in stone yet but the tank will probably have metal halide lighting, so during the lighted period that will also help heat the tank and hopefully reduce the demand on the heaters.

[Martin Thoene]

How come you're using Halide? That won't exactly help the electricity bill

The thing is, the Clowns would prefer much more subdued lighting. Halide is great on something like a Reef tank, or maybe a Rift-Lake cichlid tank, but to much for Clowns.

Martin.

[crazy loaches]

Like I said its not set in stone yet... I am considering using a pair of MH pendants possibly in conjuction with a pair of normal T8's, or ahsupply 4x96W compact fluorescent, or a T5 unit like the Tek 6x54W or 8x54W. The point has been debated before but generaly accepted that MH is on par with effeciency like the CF bulbs (when using high effeciency electronic ballasts), and the best lighting option for really deep tanks. I dont know which I will go with as of yet, but the actuall light intensity will probably be about the same as my 75G I have the clowns in now (like about 2.5-3wpg). I also plan on having quite a lot of tall shadowing plants like red rubin sword and tiger lotus, so they should have plenty of shady places to swim around in if they choose, and some large pieces of diftwood that make some open areas underneath for em.

Depending on how things go I might have to part with the clowns eventually. I have heard they are a menace in a heavily planted tank... mine are still fairly young at about 2yrs in my possesion and ~4". I have not noticed a single uprooted plant by them yet in that time, but when they start getting big I may have to give them away if they become a problem, or setup a special tank for em.

[crazy loaches]

Just an update... I have determined that my upstairs floor should be ok for the big tank so heating it shouldnt be much of a concern, and I will probably stick with the ~78 temp I have it set at already. With this in mind I am leaning more towards the cooler T5 lighting options instead of MH.

[adampetherick]

Just to be sure, you do realise a 150g tank is going to weigh nearly a tonne?

[crazy loaches]

I figured it at around 1600#. I am still waiting on getting the ok from a contractor before I do anything (no big hurry - probably wont set the tank up till late winter/early spring next year). Directly under were my 75 is now is a load bearing wall and the main beam that runs the center of the house, and also a steel support under were the tank sits. I just recently realized the tank sits over top of this - thought that the walls lined up and the tank sits infront of the wall - but the walls are ofset and the tank actually sits overtop the load bearing wall and support.

[Martin Thoene]

Cool! That sounds like a plan.

Martin.