
Eureka!
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- Jim Powers
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- adampetherick
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- Jim Powers
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Need more space to keep the ones we have already, we are allready over stocked and the fry are getting bigger ;-)Jim Powers wrote:More chenis, Les? Or do you have Sewellia on your mind? :wink:
Any way my bets on the Eureaka are on a tank inside a tank:

Top view of a segmented tank where part of the tank is isolated as a dry zone using a barrier tubes are then pumbed through this barrier. This will allow the use of high volume non submersible pumps in the dry section, heat transfer is also reduced due to the air gap. Combine this with Adam's full width intake and outflow screens and you have a winner ;-)
How close am I Martin?
- adampetherick
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If you were going for a fast flowing tank then I suppose you can increase the cut sizes to 5 times the plumbing intake/exhaust cm2 and use a fine mesh such as the stuff you use for mosquito netting siliconed to the non-tank side to stop fry getting sucked through?
And if heat is going to be a transfer then a couple of 120mm PC cooling fans could be fitted to the dry area of the tank

Or even just make the whole thing wet

And if heat is going to be a transfer then a couple of 120mm PC cooling fans could be fitted to the dry area of the tank

Or even just make the whole thing wet

- Martin Thoene
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- adampetherick
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- Graeme Robson
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That's the way i'd do it, drill the base and get some serious pumps hidden away under the tank... But Martin's first post said no external plumbing which puts that out the window and confuses me again.Graeme Robson wrote:I would keep an eye on the base area of the tank. External pipes instead of internal. It also means easy access to cleaning. Just my guess.
Anyway, it will fit in a 4' tank but "you won't have a 4 foot tank" one way or another that sounds to me like you have to sacrifice a chunk of tank space to fit in all the equipment (note the earlier comment on external plumbing). Now the pumps can't be in the water or you will have issues with heat transfer which Martin claims to have eliminated so the question is: does Martin consider the air space above the tank to be external?
Second idea from me then, flip the manifold and route the pipes over the top of the tank. Now putting your pumps above the water level opens up a whole can of worms, you need pumps that work with a draw on the intake and there is a chance of cavitation effects if that draw is too high (careful with those water changes). You then suffer from having equipment in the way when trying to service the tank ("it may look unacceptable aesthetically").
The final thing i can think of to avoid the thermal problem is to do away with pumps altogether, i have no idea how Martin can manage that.
- Martin Thoene
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- Graeme Robson
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- Graeme Robson
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- Martin Thoene
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Nope 
I was thinking the other day about going "old tech" with airlifts......but big honkin' ones.....but you need a big honkin' pump to power such things and they're noisy as hell.
I made U/G filters for my marine tanks way back when before powerheads, and the airlifts were made out out of 1.5" diameter PVC. You'd be suprised how much water you can get shifted if you have a decent air pump powering it.
But not in this case
Martin.

I was thinking the other day about going "old tech" with airlifts......but big honkin' ones.....but you need a big honkin' pump to power such things and they're noisy as hell.
I made U/G filters for my marine tanks way back when before powerheads, and the airlifts were made out out of 1.5" diameter PVC. You'd be suprised how much water you can get shifted if you have a decent air pump powering it.
But not in this case

Martin.

- Graeme Robson
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