Really, really trying

[Ded1]

Clown loaches and my water parameters.

I am really, really trying my best to make the water "ideal" for my guys. But I am stuck with pH. No matter that I am using RO, adding CO2...etc, but I did menaged to soften my water.

So, I kindly ask more experienced Clown loach keepers, how does these water parameters sounds to you, because these are my water parameters they live in?

pH 7.6
GH 11
KH 7 - 7.5

I am doing my best for a while to lower that pH to 7.0. I know stable pH is more important than lowering it at any cost.

So are these "not bad" parameters for my clown loaches ( btw, they are thriwing and are healthy )? Should I be satisfied or keep on "fighting"?

[Mark in Vancouver]

Clowns can endure those parameters, but they are not optimal, as you know. What you need to aim for is complete consistency - unchanging water parameters. Whatever you need to do to keep the levels constant will increase the chances of success for your loaches.

Try to avoid the temptation to improve on your situation if your situation is working.

[Marcos Mataratzis]

Hi Ded1,

Your parameters are not that bad. As you might know optimal pH range for Clown loaches is something between 6,5 to 7,0 and general hardness bellow 12 but they can live well in a range other than that (preferable bellow than above those values).
You also know that stable parameters are even more important than changings between optimal range values.
Maybe you should work on possible causes of those values as you have alkaline-like parameters. Are there any carbonate stones or gravel there?
Have you check your faucet water parameters? Are they ok or like the ones on your tank?

Wish you lucky!

[Diana]

Using RO water ought to result in softer water, closer to neutral pH. Are you mixing some tap water with RO, or is this pure RO?
When my RO unit got old it started letting stuff through, and the pH, kH and GH went up.

Ditto the others: If this represents a consistent, repeatable water chemistry, then stick with it. If you can soften the water some more, and that is going to be consistent, then go for it.
Altering the water chemistry from one water change to another is not good.

[Ded1]

Thank you ALL for your effort. Ironically, it seems that my pH isnt that "bad".

I am using JBL C02 +pH permanent test

It should be attached inside tank. I did not do that. I just put the reagent and water, waited for few hours and I always saw 7.6 pH. Last night I put it in the tank and now it is 6.8.

I don`t get how does this "thing" work?? Does it let inside water every now and than and change colour, or what? Anybody has experiance with this little "device"?

[linarite]

I second the advice concerning keeping the water parameters stable. That is most important. Here is something that I found that works for me - drift wood. If you don't have any in the tank you might want to consider adding some. It will release a natural acid that will work to lower the pH. As this is a slow process the change will be gradual, giving the clowns time to adjust. I tried it with great results. My pH is stable in the 7 to 6.5 range now. Good Luck

[crazy loaches]

Ded1... the device your using is often referred to as a co2 drop checker. At least if it is what I think it is. But honestly I am not sure from the pic as I've never seen on like that. Do you fill it partly with water, and does it have a hole in the base? Does the water change color like from blue to green? Drop checkers operate by putting water and pH indicator solution in the unit and placing it in the tank. Since there is a hole in the base and trapped air, co2 is allowed to reach equilibrium between the tank water and trapped air, and eventually the fluid in the checker. The co2 then lowers the pH of the water in the tester turning it from blue to green for example. There is a catch in these style checkers though, they often say to use any old water or even tank water to fill the checker. This can make the whole thing useless, and at the best very inaccurate. What needs to be done is to use a specific solution that has no buffers in it except carbonate. Use pure water like RO or DI and add carbonate to it (baking soda). Add enough carbonate so that your desired co2 level will turn the water the desired color. Most target 30ppm co2, and use 4*KH so that the drop checker turns green when 30ppm is reached. So does this sound like what you have or did I just unnecessarily write a book?

[Ded1]

What needs to be done is to use a specific solution that has no buffers in it except carbonate. Use pure water like RO or DI and add carbonate to it (baking soda). Add enough carbonate so that your desired co2 level will turn the water the desired color. Most target 30ppm co2, and use 4*KH so that the drop checker turns green when 30ppm is reached. So does this sound like what you have or did I just unnecessarily write a book?

I think your book is accurate .

I fill it with 1ml of tank water, add 3 drops of reagent, close it and attach it into tank. After few hours it changes colour, indicating what CO2 and pH is in tank water ( you than compare it with a colour scheme ). So yes, I think you are absolutely right.

The part I quoted from your answer is a part that I will take time to "study" tommorow, it is 5 in the morning here .

But yes, you got it right. Thanks!!!

[crazy loaches]

There is a lot of info about this on some other forums let me se if I can give you a couple things to read... for starters take a look at http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equip ... post352856