Loaches Online Forum

Hello,

One week ago, I brought home 5 kubotai. The next day, I treated them with levamisole hydrochloride. I can't say that I observed them too closely during that time, since I kept their light off, and they were skittish and hiding. So I don't know if this one kubotai was breathing so heavily right from the start or not.
When I did notice its very quick breathing, I tested my water, and the ammonia was at 1 PPM. I did a 30% water change and added Amquel to detox the ammonia. No change. Then I thought I noticed a few ich spots on some of the other fish's fins, and the panting one started scratching, so I increased my water temp. to 90 degrees. I dropped the water level for a good splash. The other fish are relaxed and breathing normally and have been the whole time.

I have changed 30% of the water each day, and I added lots of established filter material from another tank. The ammonia level hasn't changed, and the nitrites are still at 0.
Yesterday, I bought some PRIME and added that to the tank. The little fish is still panting heavily.
I don't know if he has gill damage or still a heavy infestation of ich. Or could it be gill flukes? He hasn't scratched since that first day that I noticed it.
I used the heat only method to kill ich once before when I started back into this hobby (obsession ) and I was very pleased at how well my fish did.

ammonia 1 PPM
nitrite 0
pH 7.6
temp 90

Any ideas?

Thanks

Thee is still a parisite then LM if there is irritation. Can you get this one in a ten by itself? I would do another round of Levamisole and go from there as a group otherwise . The forum group spoke of another anti-parisitic they use also if Levamisole is not the trick. Worst case maybe that med resistant ich is there . If you can seperate the distressed fish further you would have more options using stronger dosed meds.Could this be previous damage from parisites is another path to contemplate.
The needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few.......

Tinman wrote:Thee is still a parisite then LM

Am I?

Just kidding, Tinman.

I know it was a typo, but I couldn't resist.

I don't have another tank right now, except a 5 gallon that has my daughter's betta in it. Should I move him there. Also, are you saying that I should levamisole the whole group before I separate them?

Thanks Tinman

So funny , I meant TheRe. Me no spell to good here in the twigs, past the sticks on the Prarie

The forum says two to three times before sending them in to your system. One more treatment would be a safe place to go IMO, Check Sharis article on the site again, I think it speaks to this You funny, That Good....

Thanks Tinman!!

I'll do that. Have a great Saturday in the twigs!

I just completed another round of levamisole.
The same loach is breathing very quickly, has good color, and goes for food.

All other loaches are breathing normally.

Temp is still at 90 with a good splash.

My husband thinks I should remove the sickly one and finish the quarantine period for the other four so I can move them to the loach tank.

Me thinks he right too ...... That one needs a a different cure.

Thanks Tinman

I'll try to find a spot for him. I may have to buy another heater, so I can put him in something. I have filters, but not enough heaters.

If you don't have any signs of Ich, perhaps you should lower the temp. 90F alone may be responsible for discomfort especially if the animal has been weakened by disease. I'd slowly go toward low 80S.

Do not rush to send the other fish into your main tank. They may also be infected with whatever the one Loach has.

Could you set up the one Loach in a smaller container that is set inside the quarantine tank? The Q-tank will keep the separate container warm, yet you can medicate each separately. SOmething like the container that is used in fish stores to contain the caught fish before bagging them. You could add a lot of Java Moss or other soft plant, perhaps a small cave or some sort (thin slab of rock, leaning against the side) that will help the Loach feel there is a hiding place. An air bubbler will likely be enough water movement, or if the container is a little bigger an air powered sponge filter would be great, especially if you use a sponge that is already cycled.

I am concerned about 1 ppm Ammonia. What is the pH? (Ammonia is less toxic at acidic pH, more toxic at higher pH)
I would increase the water changes to try to get the ammonia level lower, or even use some zeolite on days that the tank does not have medicine in it. (I do not know if zeolite removes any medicines)
What is the NitrAte reading? (You mentioned NitrIte, but that should be 0 ppm in a cycled tank- good that it is 0, of course)

Thanks for your replies. I appreciate them.

I've been away most of the day. I've been observing this loach this evening. It may be wishful thinking, but I think his breathing has slowed considerably. He is still breathing faster than the others, but slower than before. I'm going to wait till morning, observe him again, and go from there.

You've all given me great advice. Thanks


Also,I tested my water again.

Ammonia is still showing between 0.5-1.0 ppm. (I think it's a lighter shade of yellow than before.)
pH is 7.6
Nitrites are still 0.
I don't have a nitrate test.

I'm using PRIME in the water, too.

One more thing...

Diana mentioned separating the sick fish from the others in a plastic container that could hang in the tank to keep the temp stabilized. I don't have any such container.
I was thinking that maybe I could use a one gallon Ziploc freezer bag. They are quite sturdy and food-grade. I could fill it with water, place a small amount of gravel in the bottom, and add some plants for cover. I could clip this to the side of the tank and add a sponge filter.

Any ideas or concerns about this? I'm thinking ahead for tomorrow in case I need to isolate him.

Thanks

I'd not do this.

You don't know really what to medicate the sick loach with, and if you did, the chances are that you would have to medicate all of them anyway. And moving him to a bag may stress him to death too.

How large are the Kubs? (it seems that Juv botia are much more sensitive to things like ammonia).

Another way you can try to handle the problem with ammonia: massive w/c using a mix of fresh water (25%-50%) and dirty water from an established tank. After the parameters equalize, you can safely do nearly 100% W/C.
(I did this once with 100% daily changes, feeding a 10g quarantine from 125g which only benefited from extra small changes; worked fine until the cycle stabilized).