My 240g tank journal

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Tinman
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Post by Tinman » Mon Dec 24, 2007 9:58 pm

Very intresting build and being 100% automated myself I enjoy others building their own. As a Master electrician watching you build non UL approved lighting assemblys for use above water Tristan are you on a GFCI braker at your panel .I see no protection under your tank????

Even with a high flow rate I swirl the water more inside my tanks to keep food suspended for a longer time to ease feeding. Although your fish may become accustomed to the pumps going off meaning food I have had better luck over the years keeping all pumps operating 100% of the time.I really like the ph monitor. I would be curious to see its durability and consistancy over a few years....

Jones asked
In the most simplistic words which you can formulate (ie. I can understand) what is "all of this power/control system wiring about"?
With an investment in fish and the food to get them large being thousands of dollars or tens of thousands of dollars automation is consistancy and consistancy equals long term success.By long term I mean many years of consistant care no matter the mood of the keeper . Low temp /high temp alarms etc. are very cost effective when on year 12 your heater sticks on and kills your fish for example....

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crazy loaches
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Post by crazy loaches » Mon Dec 24, 2007 10:58 pm

Tinman - thanks for the comments. I know you have done some awesome stuff and I'm glad do be joining the ranks of some of the great DIYers here on LOL :wink: !

As far as the lights go - they should be fine, they are UL listed and include waterproof endcaps. Ballast and heatsink will be on the backside of the canopy. Yes, GFCI is used and pictured in my last post of pics.

For the feed cycle since I dont have fish in it yet it is untested and subject to change once I try it out. I did a test and put some flakes in the other day and within about 20 seconds they were all down the overflows, so I am pretty sure I am going to have to shut off the return pump. The powerheads I dont know, they may get left on.

As for the pH monitor, Neptune told me that freshwater was harder on the probes, and he estimated a 1 year life cycle with the lab grade probe I bought. For a quick backup though I went ahead and bought two so I have a spare ready to go since it is controlling my CO2 injection.

I agree with the consistency aspect, thats one of the main reasons I went with the controller. For example I have always struggled with keeping up with water changes, especially with my rotating shift at work and having all my family out of town. I rarely have enough time during a work day to do a pwc and the breaks I get I am usually gone out of town. This way my water change is perfectly consistant and I dont have to do anything except change the carbon or micron filter. And that wont be very often, the carbon 'chlorine guzzler' filter I am using is rated at 20,000 gallons. As long as the city doesnt switch to chloramines...

You dont need a controller for automated setups, each thing can be controlled from timers or level switches, etc, the controller just centralizes all the control so everything is in sync, plus all the extra bells n whistles.

I'll have more details & pics on various aspects of the automation later.

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jones57742
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Post by jones57742 » Tue Dec 25, 2007 2:48 am

Ah ha! A power and control system.

Thanks Tristan and Tinman.


One item that I did not notice on my last review were "line conditioners" for either the high amp devices or the low amp controls (but who knows as I did not even know what "it was" the first time I read Tristan's post).

In most installations line conditioners for the power to jockey pumps, chemical injection pumps, etc as well as for control/metering equipment is sometimes implemented.


A second item is that I have used stainless steel probes with sacrificial anodes in domestic waste water lift stations and the probes have outlasted the pumps.

Please note that the last lift station which I designed was easily 15 years ago and better technology may now be available.

TR
Hookem Horns and Keep Austin Weird
In the short run the good guys never win:
In the long run they win some of the times!
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Rychek
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Post by Rychek » Tue Dec 25, 2007 8:47 am

That controller sounds amazing! One of these days I need to get one of those (like right after I get a tank big enough to merit the expense). Awesome work Tristan, keep it coming!
"If no one makes you do it, it counts a fun" --Hobbes the Tiger

"No trees were harmed in the writing of this message, however, several electrons were GREATLY inconvenienced." --Anonymous

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chefkeith
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Post by chefkeith » Tue Dec 25, 2007 3:22 pm

Damn dude, I was thinking of getting a mini webserver for my tanks awhile ago, but you went ahead and did it. That neptune AC3 system looks very good.

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Keith Wolcott
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Post by Keith Wolcott » Tue Dec 25, 2007 3:58 pm

I'm jealous here too!!!

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jones57742
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Post by jones57742 » Tue Dec 25, 2007 5:43 pm

Folks:

Can yall just imagine the graduate course which Tristan is giving us.

No theory here but just "if you want to do it" then "this is how it is done"!

TR
Hookem Horns and Keep Austin Weird
In the short run the good guys never win:
In the long run they win some of the times!
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crazy loaches
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Post by crazy loaches » Tue Dec 25, 2007 11:12 pm

So far the AC3 is pretty cool. But there are better controllers out there too. I've already found things I don’t like about it but they are minor. One of the more major surprises is the built in webserver is pretty limited. To do advanced stuff you have to run a webserver from a PC. This is kind of disappointing to me - mainly because I already run a webserver on a computer only its running Linux. This will require me to devote another PC to the tank since the software is only windows compatible. :evil:


Jones - I've only actually been in the hobby a short while compared to many... and I only started doing it right since I've been on the forums. I joined my first forum in February '06. At that point I thought doing something like a 50% wc was ridiculous, a school was more than 1 fish (i.e. 2), and knew nothing of the nitrogen cycle, for example. So basically I can say I learned everything I know about aquariums on the forums. So other than having some tools which help my DIY abilities, anyone can do this stuff. Except probably most aren’t as crazy to spend so much on a tank! Then again to some this tank is tiny...

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crazy loaches
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Post by crazy loaches » Wed Dec 26, 2007 8:54 pm

To continue with electrical & control, I'll focus on some of the parts that comprise the automation...

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My order from McMaster-Carr, solenoids and float switches for my auto water change setup and water level alarm.


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A close up of the solenoids (the quick connect fittings are a separate item). I got the 120VAC version so I can plug em right into the AC3's DC8 power brick.


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Can anyone guess what that is? OMG I didn’t realize you could even make a plug that used so many parts! These are minidin8 connectors (I ordered 3 so I had a couple extra). The AC3 uses a minidin8 plug for the switch inputs. They also charge like $40 for the I/O breakout box that allows you to hook up external switches to the AC3. But all it is is 1 ground pin and a pin for each of the two switches, so most just make their own cable. The minidin connectors are like a buck, and well I have all the rest of everything I need already.


Image
Close up of the float switches.


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The housings and bracket I made for the switches. I used a scrap piece of polycarbonate plastic I had and a small butane torch to bend the top, never bent plastic before, but good enough. I also notched the bracket for every 5G for the water level in the sump. I made housings for the float switches out of pvc endcaps.


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Completed switches wired into phone jacks. I have boxes of phone jacks laying around and it seemed like an easy way to do it. Also pictures is the minidin8 cable that I made to connect to the AC3. Its also hooked to a phone jack. So now all I need is a regular phone style cord to go between the jack connected to the minidin8 and the other two jacks. I could have used single phone jacks for the switches but didn’t feel like digging around through my boxes to find the singles since I had the duals out.


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Completed bracket that will be attached to the sump tank. The upper float switch is mounted to stop my drain pump at a certain level for my daily water change (about 10%). The lower switch triggers the AC3 alarm for low water level and will shut off the return pump and email me. The third level switch will go in the main tank and indicate the main tank is two high, wired together with the last switch so will also set off the alarm function, shut down the return pump, and email me. Basically the last two switches are in parallel.

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chefkeith
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Post by chefkeith » Wed Dec 26, 2007 10:27 pm

I wonder what that red button is for? -Elmer Fudd
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Rychek
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Post by Rychek » Wed Dec 26, 2007 10:30 pm

Hmm... must be the "panic" button. I wonder what it does...?

The more I read this thread, the more I want to get a really BIG loach tank. I LOVE IT! Thanks for the all the documenting your doing Tristan. It's really wonderful.

/me goes off to fight the upgrade bug...
"If no one makes you do it, it counts a fun" --Hobbes the Tiger

"No trees were harmed in the writing of this message, however, several electrons were GREATLY inconvenienced." --Anonymous

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crazy loaches
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Post by crazy loaches » Thu Dec 27, 2007 12:50 am

Actually there is no button, its just a red housing. Sorry :wink:

newshound
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Post by newshound » Thu Dec 27, 2007 11:07 am

geez us!!!!!!
I haven't been checking out this thread due to time constraints. BUT WOW!!!!
way over my head.
Doing an edit and artical on this tank is a great idea.
drain your pool!

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jones57742
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Post by jones57742 » Thu Dec 27, 2007 2:17 pm

crazy loaches wrote:Jones - I've only actually been in the hobby a short while compared to many
Same here.

But the redoing and $'s you are going through and posting the solutions will "really help me with my thinking" as well as hopefully many other folks.

TR
Hookem Horns and Keep Austin Weird
In the short run the good guys never win:
In the long run they win some of the times!
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crazy loaches
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Post by crazy loaches » Thu Dec 27, 2007 7:27 pm

I'm actually contemplating re-doing another part of the tank now also... the co2 injection method, while it would work fine in a similar application, doesnt work so well in my tank. The co2 isnt dissolving enough and I get quite a bit of too-large bubbles in the tank. Micro bubbles and co2 mist are desirable, but not what I have going on. And just incase someone has no idea what I am doing with co2, its because I am going to be heavily planting this tank with live plants.

My method, as I indicated earlier, is simply bubbling co2 into the intake of the return pump with micro bubblers. But I have two things working against me I believe, for one thing my plumbing on the intake side of the return pump is fairly large for the flow, so the water velocity is less, and I think the bubbles are converging back together into large bubbles. And second, the pump I am using is a low speed series pump so the impellor isnt spinning as fast, great for low noise but not so good at breaking up bubbles and dissolving them.

I havent figured out what I am going to do yet, I may make a powered reactor in the sump, or a Mazzei venturi in the return lines to the tank. Not sure.

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