This is very interesting, thanks a lot for this oneMartin Thoene wrote:I found this today. Looks like some interesting reading, plus goes on to cover pH, etc.
http://www.ecy.wa.gov/programs/wq/plant ... eamdo.html

Moderator: LoachForumModerators
This is very interesting, thanks a lot for this oneMartin Thoene wrote:I found this today. Looks like some interesting reading, plus goes on to cover pH, etc.
http://www.ecy.wa.gov/programs/wq/plant ... eamdo.html
The tank is well planted, but leaves much room for swimming and currents. It was originally designed as a medium flow pre-amazon stream, but has become more of an asian influenced community tank.Gary Herring wrote:With regards to the O2 / CO2 issues, I assume you have a fully planted tank? If so, its never going to be ideal for hillstreams and you'll have to compromise to a certain extent untill you can set up your new tank. You'll never create a really high dissolved oxygen content whilst at the same time maintaining good levels of CO2. In fact although it should'nt do them any harm, any additional CO2 is'nt really disirable for hillstreams, if only becouse they would never encounter it in nature.
Of course. The river tank will definately be made to imitate their natural habitat, which I am currently researching to the best of my abilitiesIts important to remember these fishes natural habitats when creating an aquarium environment for them. The mountain rivers and streams in which they live are literally white-water in places and can reach speeds of 1 metre per second (there are some good pictures to illustrate this in Martin's article). It is for this reason that they have evolved with such extreme physical adaptions, ie their 'sucker-bellys', which enable them to cling to and graze over rocks in such waters. So basically, the suggested oxygen level for hillstreams is as high as you can possibily get it! You should have high flow, surface agitation and ideally, some sort of airation too. Martin's article does also go on to explain exactly why these fish cannot tolerate low O2 levels, ie their haemoglobin has a low affinity for oxygen. I'm not saying your tank does have low O2 levels, I'm just trying to give you a picture of the ideal environment for hillstreams to thrive.
To my knowlegde, temperature and the previous mentioned bubbles from the plants are the best indicator of oxygen saturation. At 100% saturation in freshwater at 25 C the dissolved oxygen is 8.6 ppm. Lower temperatures allow for more dissolved O2.Also, I'm not sure how accurate your O2 test kit would actually be. I've used a Tetra one in the past, and found it to be pretty useless.
The rocky background does have several flat horizontal surfaces, some of them diretly in front of the pump outlet. They seem to spend some time on these. Even more time is spent on the glass on the oposit side (this is likely the coolest place in the tank), or foraging. They seem to move around as a loose group most of the time.Jim Powers wrote:It would be a good idea to provide your fish with some flat stones if you can. They like to rest on such stones, particularly in the current flow.
Graeme Robson wrote:Superb pictures dev!!![]()
They may be 'common' to some. But they are one of my favorite Hilly's.
Yeah fair enough, I take your point about the plants. TBH I'd not even taken that factor into consideration. Obviously then you'd have to take extra care at night by increasing airation and perhaps dropping temp by a degree, but I'm sure you are well aware of all that already.dev wrote: On the matter of oxygen vs CO2 i will beg to differ. Thriwing plants will oxygenate the water to 100% saturation. Aearation or surface movement will not dissolve any more oxygen than this (but a trickle filter may, and it will not affect the CO2 levels either). This is easily proven by bubbles forming on the leaves when the water cannot take up any more. If anyone have information that indicates otherwise, I will be very interested to hear about it.
hehe, sort of. I run the air pump at intervals (15 minutes every hour) whenever the lights are out, to clear out some CO2 and keep the water oxygenated.Gary Herring wrote: Yeah fair enough, I take your point about the plants. TBH I'd not even taken that factor into consideration. Obviously then you'd have to take extra care at night by increasing airation and perhaps dropping temp by a degree, but I'm sure you are well aware of all that already.![]()
*nod* Aeration and surface movement will remove any CO2 for sure, leaving only the ambient 3-5 ppm. This is why I limit surface movement and don't aerate during the day in my planted tanks.What I said about O2 vs CO2 was just based upon my experiance with my own river tanks, where even though the tank is well stocked with fish, the CO2 level is practically zero at all times due to the sheer amount of water circulation and surface agitation. This, I think, is the main factor that contributes to my PH levels staying stable at 7 or slightly over, even with a KH of 2/3 and loads of bogwood.
Thanks!Great pics BTW, and lovely healthy looking Beaufortia you have there. More often than not, these fish arrive in pretty poor condition and often won't feed on anything other than algae for a couple of weeks, so yours must have settled in well already
hehe, perhaps. But like you say, it IS hard to get, and most fish prefer a dark substrate for safety. Besides, with some high kelvin light in the front it adds brilliant contrast and color without giving the tank a yellowish lookMartin Thoene wrote: *snip*
Only a complete fish nut does this kind of thing right?![]()
Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot], Google [Bot] and 133 guests