Advice for changing substrate
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Advice for changing substrate
When I originally set up this aquarium, I wanted to have a "picture pefect" planted aquarium so I used substrate recommended for that, not realizing it's coursness and jagged edges was not the best choice for my clowns. So I've decided to cater to my loaches and give them a sand substrate. My concern is how to do this without upsetting my loaches too much and how to do it without removing too much established bacteria that is on the substrate.
I was considering replacing the substrate in small sections over an extended period of time, thus minimizing the impact on my loaches and the biological filtration.
Any thoughts on this or ideas on better methods would be greatly appreciated.
Linda
I was considering replacing the substrate in small sections over an extended period of time, thus minimizing the impact on my loaches and the biological filtration.
Any thoughts on this or ideas on better methods would be greatly appreciated.
Linda
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle!
It depends on several factors. Like what kind of filters you have, how many filters you have, and how mature the filters are? If the tank is planted or not? What kind of plants? How heavily planted the tank is.
In some cases when you remove the old substrate you'll be removing some good bacteria, but you'll also be removing an equal amount of old detritus which the tank can do without. So the transition might have little impact. If you have plants, the filters might not be as heavily populated with bacteria. Just be sure not to damage the plant roots when you move them. Not an easy thing to do with some older plants.
It's probably best to move the fish to a few temporary holding tanks. Don't overcrowd the tanks either. You might want to separete the fish by species if you can. If you don't have some holding tanks, then now would be a good time to get them. Clean rubbermaid containers, trash cans, and buckets will work as well. The water parameters in the holding tanks needs to match the main tank's water. If you normally add fertilizers or minerals to the tank water, then you must keep that chemistry consistent. A TDS meter would help you match the water parameters. If you don't have one, then it might be best to use most of the old tank water in the holding tanks. Then the fish won't have any acclimation problems.
After the fish are moved, then remove all the water and breakdown the tank. If you have a shop vac, they work pretty good at getting the old substrate out. If you work the vacuum like surgeon, then you might get the plants out with minimal damage. Hopefully the rest is self explanatory. Just be sure the water parameters match from the holding tank to the main tank when moving the fish back to the main tank. A TDS meter would once again be very handy in this instant.
What's great about sand is that it can be easy to keep clean if the water flow is good enough.
In some cases when you remove the old substrate you'll be removing some good bacteria, but you'll also be removing an equal amount of old detritus which the tank can do without. So the transition might have little impact. If you have plants, the filters might not be as heavily populated with bacteria. Just be sure not to damage the plant roots when you move them. Not an easy thing to do with some older plants.
It's probably best to move the fish to a few temporary holding tanks. Don't overcrowd the tanks either. You might want to separete the fish by species if you can. If you don't have some holding tanks, then now would be a good time to get them. Clean rubbermaid containers, trash cans, and buckets will work as well. The water parameters in the holding tanks needs to match the main tank's water. If you normally add fertilizers or minerals to the tank water, then you must keep that chemistry consistent. A TDS meter would help you match the water parameters. If you don't have one, then it might be best to use most of the old tank water in the holding tanks. Then the fish won't have any acclimation problems.
After the fish are moved, then remove all the water and breakdown the tank. If you have a shop vac, they work pretty good at getting the old substrate out. If you work the vacuum like surgeon, then you might get the plants out with minimal damage. Hopefully the rest is self explanatory. Just be sure the water parameters match from the holding tank to the main tank when moving the fish back to the main tank. A TDS meter would once again be very handy in this instant.
What's great about sand is that it can be easy to keep clean if the water flow is good enough.
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The way Keith recommended above is a very wise and safe way to do it.
I personally often go "weird ways" and would try to siphon the gravel out in the same way like doing a water change. Except I'd use a pillow case (which is not treated with any fabricsofteners etc.) around the outlet which goes into the bucket (keep the pillowcase, or any other fabric that can work as a filter) loose, so it does not plug up). Than fill the (filtered) water from the bucket back into the tank, repeat until gravel is out. Even the water goes through the fabric, it will turn black, which settles after a few hours, but you may have difficulties with seeing in the dark water...
This method is harsch but with rinsing the fabric frequently it may work, it sure keeps all the bacteria, as many they get flashed into the water, the fish may experience muddy waters in nature too.
The plant roots are also kept with little damage. In a big tank the darkened water can be a problem with not seeing enough.
I once simply put finy sand (very fine) simply over the gravel. Surprisengly until today the fine sand did not fall into all gaps underneath. Pangio sift the sand every night.
The high risk of doing that:
sealing off the dirt with a layer of fine sand, may/will result in poisen developing in the ground. Now I have very many plants with a strong developed root system, that will absorb it over time. The fine sand seals off the oxygen and some "sulfur-bad-stuff" remains in the ground. I had no issue with doing the "wild thing" but technically I need to point out that it is very risky. I also frequently frequently measure certain water parameters of the water in the substrate, as I am monitoring the nutrion consumption of my plants (I am, fertilizing via substrate which I found very efficient for root-feeders, specially re mikro-nutrients).
Now, even though I previous had gravel/coarse sand, I still had that really bad smell when changing the substrate, around the roots of the plants. That means the water exchange does not work, as the gaps plug up with mud and putting in clay-ball-fertilizer. So the risky situation was present, without me even noticing. Sand and good water movement on the ground (like Keith stated) is also my recepy.
I personally often go "weird ways" and would try to siphon the gravel out in the same way like doing a water change. Except I'd use a pillow case (which is not treated with any fabricsofteners etc.) around the outlet which goes into the bucket (keep the pillowcase, or any other fabric that can work as a filter) loose, so it does not plug up). Than fill the (filtered) water from the bucket back into the tank, repeat until gravel is out. Even the water goes through the fabric, it will turn black, which settles after a few hours, but you may have difficulties with seeing in the dark water...
This method is harsch but with rinsing the fabric frequently it may work, it sure keeps all the bacteria, as many they get flashed into the water, the fish may experience muddy waters in nature too.
The plant roots are also kept with little damage. In a big tank the darkened water can be a problem with not seeing enough.
I once simply put finy sand (very fine) simply over the gravel. Surprisengly until today the fine sand did not fall into all gaps underneath. Pangio sift the sand every night.
The high risk of doing that:
sealing off the dirt with a layer of fine sand, may/will result in poisen developing in the ground. Now I have very many plants with a strong developed root system, that will absorb it over time. The fine sand seals off the oxygen and some "sulfur-bad-stuff" remains in the ground. I had no issue with doing the "wild thing" but technically I need to point out that it is very risky. I also frequently frequently measure certain water parameters of the water in the substrate, as I am monitoring the nutrion consumption of my plants (I am, fertilizing via substrate which I found very efficient for root-feeders, specially re mikro-nutrients).
Now, even though I previous had gravel/coarse sand, I still had that really bad smell when changing the substrate, around the roots of the plants. That means the water exchange does not work, as the gaps plug up with mud and putting in clay-ball-fertilizer. So the risky situation was present, without me even noticing. Sand and good water movement on the ground (like Keith stated) is also my recepy.
Wolfram
If you are using one of the Florite substrates I would just dust some sand over that, or some 3-M Colorquartz. Leave the plants in their good soil, and just a little softer material for the Loaches.
Are you actually seeing problems with the current substrate?
Are you actually seeing problems with the current substrate?
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.
Happy fish keeping!
Happy fish keeping!
Thank you chefkeith, wasserscheu and Diana for your replies and great advice!
The aquarium is 60" x 12.5" x 18" and has been set up for about 4 years. For mechanical/chemical filtration I have a Magnum 350 with DLS material and carbon. For biological filtration I have an Eheim 2215 with (from bottom to top) ceramic noodles, efilav (lava rock), the plastic green "easter grass" looking stuff Eheim sells (I have forgotten the name) and filter floss. The exhaust of the Eheim goes through a UV sterilizer prior to returning to the tank. I also have a Maxi Jet 500 for additional circulation. I have a small to medium load of live plants which are java fern, java moss and anubias nana.
I am using the Flourite product as my substrate and have not noticed any problems with my clowns and the substrate but I would like to give them something as close to their natural habitat as possible.
I love my clowns, especially "Big Girl." I've had her for about 15 years and did not always give her the best conditions. She is only about 5" in length and I believe that is because of my original lack of knowledge,..I had her in a 29 gallon for 11 years
. She has made it through three tank moves and a few bouts of ick, the last of which took all 5 of her clown buddies away. She now has 7 new buddies between 2" and 3" and seems thrilled. Now I want to give her a substrate she can "play" and hunt in like she does in the java moss.
Diana, you mentioned putting sand or fine gravel on top of the Flourite. I'm concerned it will work it's way under the Flourite because of aggitation from water movement, fish rooting around and water changes. Have you or someone you know done this with success? That was actually my husband's first suggestion and he also suggested instead removing the Flourite, just moving a couple of areas and replacing the moved substrate with sand or very fine gravel. Both are very attractive ideas to me because I think it would result in the least amount of stress for my fish.
Any thoughts on this?
Linda
p.s. Thank you for taking the time to read and consider this, I know all of you are very busy with your own aquariums and the fact you are trying to help me really means a great deal to me.
"What did this fish say when it hit a wall?"
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"Dam!"
The aquarium is 60" x 12.5" x 18" and has been set up for about 4 years. For mechanical/chemical filtration I have a Magnum 350 with DLS material and carbon. For biological filtration I have an Eheim 2215 with (from bottom to top) ceramic noodles, efilav (lava rock), the plastic green "easter grass" looking stuff Eheim sells (I have forgotten the name) and filter floss. The exhaust of the Eheim goes through a UV sterilizer prior to returning to the tank. I also have a Maxi Jet 500 for additional circulation. I have a small to medium load of live plants which are java fern, java moss and anubias nana.
I am using the Flourite product as my substrate and have not noticed any problems with my clowns and the substrate but I would like to give them something as close to their natural habitat as possible.
I love my clowns, especially "Big Girl." I've had her for about 15 years and did not always give her the best conditions. She is only about 5" in length and I believe that is because of my original lack of knowledge,..I had her in a 29 gallon for 11 years

Diana, you mentioned putting sand or fine gravel on top of the Flourite. I'm concerned it will work it's way under the Flourite because of aggitation from water movement, fish rooting around and water changes. Have you or someone you know done this with success? That was actually my husband's first suggestion and he also suggested instead removing the Flourite, just moving a couple of areas and replacing the moved substrate with sand or very fine gravel. Both are very attractive ideas to me because I think it would result in the least amount of stress for my fish.
Any thoughts on this?
Linda
p.s. Thank you for taking the time to read and consider this, I know all of you are very busy with your own aquariums and the fact you are trying to help me really means a great deal to me.
"What did this fish say when it hit a wall?"
*
*
*
*
*
"Dam!"
Reduce, Reuse, Recycle!
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- Posts: 995
- Joined: Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:29 am
- Location: Munich
I just doublechecked a German site, to be sure I am not putting you in a bad situation. Found a report where pond-soil was covered with sand and there were no issues.
Once you have good plant growth I would go ahead and put an 1/2" layer of sand over. It will partially penetrate into the substrate, but I see no problem with that.
Don't stirr around the ground to much, so the building up hydrosulfide and others stays in the substrate. As I mentioned above, sooner or later also coarse material will plug up and seal off, but we don't even notice.
Summary (as I am not sure about my English) go ahead with just putting sand over it. Before you do it you may even bring some feritlizer deep into the existing substrate.
I admire you for the 15 year old clown.
Good luck
Once you have good plant growth I would go ahead and put an 1/2" layer of sand over. It will partially penetrate into the substrate, but I see no problem with that.
Don't stirr around the ground to much, so the building up hydrosulfide and others stays in the substrate. As I mentioned above, sooner or later also coarse material will plug up and seal off, but we don't even notice.
Summary (as I am not sure about my English) go ahead with just putting sand over it. Before you do it you may even bring some feritlizer deep into the existing substrate.
I admire you for the 15 year old clown.
Good luck
Wolfram
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