has anyone tried these all in one testing strips? i have some and each time i use them on the 80 gallon tank they tell me i have really high nitrate levels. i then took some water to the pet shop for them to test with the bottle testing kits and the test came out fine. so i thought ok its the strips but when i test my 50 gallon tank and the tap water the nitrates come out fine so it cant be the strips can it if its giving different results?
please advise really on what you think is wrong
testing the water
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Most of us who are serious about the hobby have invested in the liquid test kits, i own the API set. Most say that the strips are inaccurate, sure you'll get some kind of reaction between tank water and tap water. Can you rest assured its accuracy is correct, probably not, like you have found out.
Your best bet is get a liquid test set for yourself, in the long run its cheaper then the strips are to begin with. Secondly its much more accurate and easy to read.
Your best bet is get a liquid test set for yourself, in the long run its cheaper then the strips are to begin with. Secondly its much more accurate and easy to read.
i do have a liquid test kit (3 infact as some of the bottles run out more then others) i think its made by tetra something but it doesnt have the nitrate is it possible to get i nitrate liquid test? i bought these liquid test kits over 10 years ago. im not sure what all the different tests the shop did. my kit has hardness, Ph, nitrite and ammonia. i think i will buy a new liquid set though as some of the bottles have run out like with ammonia there are 3 different liquids to be used but one has run out thats why i bought the strips in the first place and do the kits have an expiration date? i tried to look for one but couldnt find anything. i saw what looked like a good kit for £40 is this a good price?
thanks for the help. i have been keeping fish for 20 years but you can still learn something new every day.
thanks for the help. i have been keeping fish for 20 years but you can still learn something new every day.
The timing is very important when using the test strips. I also have seen discrepancies between the strips and the API test tube and reagent style tests.
Yet, I do get a range of readings in different tanks, and tap water is 0 ppm NO3, so there is something going on.
Tests (strips and liquid reagent types) can be calibrated. You mix up an exact recipe of certain chemicals and test that with your test kit (nay sort). Then you can dilute the recipe an exact amount and test again. By testing several known mixes you can see exactly what the test kit is reporting when it turns a certain color.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ferti ... mists.html
With the test strips, once the color has gone deeper than a rich pink (40 ppm, if I remember) I cannot tell what color it is. The NO3 is too high, no matter what the actual number is, so I do a 50% water change. Then test again the next day once things have settled down. If the color is still one of those impossible to tell apart shades of pink, then I do another water change and test again. (And worry about how really bad it must have been before that first water change!)
Yet, I do get a range of readings in different tanks, and tap water is 0 ppm NO3, so there is something going on.
Tests (strips and liquid reagent types) can be calibrated. You mix up an exact recipe of certain chemicals and test that with your test kit (nay sort). Then you can dilute the recipe an exact amount and test again. By testing several known mixes you can see exactly what the test kit is reporting when it turns a certain color.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/ferti ... mists.html
With the test strips, once the color has gone deeper than a rich pink (40 ppm, if I remember) I cannot tell what color it is. The NO3 is too high, no matter what the actual number is, so I do a 50% water change. Then test again the next day once things have settled down. If the color is still one of those impossible to tell apart shades of pink, then I do another water change and test again. (And worry about how really bad it must have been before that first water change!)
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.
Happy fish keeping!
Happy fish keeping!
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Water Test Kits: Accepta is a leading supplier of water test kits, testing and analysis equipment to the industrial water treatment and process industries. Our extensive product range includes high quality field testing kits, analysis equipment and chemical reagents that accurately test the quality of water and other aqueous solutions.
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Our extensive technical knowledge and product development expertise also allows us to partner closely with our customers to develop new water test kits, testing and analysis systems, tailoring products to meet their specific requirements. We can also provide own label and third party branding facilities allowing customers to benefit from our innovative approach, technical expertise and high quality products, without the need to develop their own expensive manufacturing facilities.
The other 'test kit' that you have are the fish and plants in the tank.
Healthy, active fish and thriving plants with a minimum of algae are good indicators that all is well.
A test kit that you just bought is 'new' only to you. It may have been sitting on the shelf in the store for a long time. API has date codes on its bottles, and most of their tests are generally good for about 3 years (it does vary with the test, though).
I would make up at least one of the calibration mixes suggested in my link above and see how it comes out.
Of the tests you have:
pH is not so critical by itself, but is sort of 2 steps away from telling you what minerals are in the water. No matter what number the test reports, as long as tests report the same value over time, then conditions are stable in the tank.
Ammonia and Nitrite are important when you are cycling the tank, and when there is a problem with the nitrifying bacteria. When the tank is running well these tests ought to read 0 ppm.
Nitrate is the most important test. You will be determining how often and what volume of water changes to do to keep the NO3 low (no higher than 20 ppm).
Healthy, active fish and thriving plants with a minimum of algae are good indicators that all is well.
A test kit that you just bought is 'new' only to you. It may have been sitting on the shelf in the store for a long time. API has date codes on its bottles, and most of their tests are generally good for about 3 years (it does vary with the test, though).
I would make up at least one of the calibration mixes suggested in my link above and see how it comes out.
Of the tests you have:
pH is not so critical by itself, but is sort of 2 steps away from telling you what minerals are in the water. No matter what number the test reports, as long as tests report the same value over time, then conditions are stable in the tank.
Ammonia and Nitrite are important when you are cycling the tank, and when there is a problem with the nitrifying bacteria. When the tank is running well these tests ought to read 0 ppm.
Nitrate is the most important test. You will be determining how often and what volume of water changes to do to keep the NO3 low (no higher than 20 ppm).
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.
Happy fish keeping!
Happy fish keeping!
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