http://i.imgur.com/S7yvy.png
exactly what my betta has right now.
[/img]
Is this velvet? Pic of fish enclosed. Very sick fish :(
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Is this velvet? Pic of fish enclosed. Very sick fish :(
"I'm not *THAT* kind of hunter"
I will load pic tonight
We took pics a few days ago. I will upload them today, as soon as I find a free USB plug...
"I'm not *THAT* kind of hunter"
I will load pic tonight
We took pics a few days ago. I will upload them today, as soon as I find a free USB plug...
"I'm not *THAT* kind of hunter"
fish disease
He was a multicolored betta; blues, reds, and purples. That spot/patch only showed up at the end of the 3 day decline of Sid's health; his fin (bottom) was eaten away the day prior, then this showed up on his body....I cannot find anything online about advanced stages of Fin Rot, or velvet.....I've taken a couple of my dead fish to a few local fish stores. All the same symptoms. No one has any idea what it is.
My danios are now showing signs of illness as well. But not exactly like the betta's. They've got rusty looking specs on their bodies, not a big blotch of gold/brown. This is just like velvet is supposed to look.
Can't treat the tank, don't know what I have. Can't treat the fish (same reason). Now I'm learning that bleach doesn't kill everything that is bad for fish, so even if I wipeout and start again.....I'll have the same problem.
I'm even starting to wonder about the tank and where it came from....it's used, a lady who is a huge fish fan up here, her husband asked her to get rid of 3 out of 7 tanks. This is one of them. She seems very dedicated to her fishes; but I know she's VERY frail and elderly....so maybe the tank was compromised before it even got here. And if it was compromised by something that bleach can't kill.....it would never show up in water tests....ugh
My danios are now showing signs of illness as well. But not exactly like the betta's. They've got rusty looking specs on their bodies, not a big blotch of gold/brown. This is just like velvet is supposed to look.
Can't treat the tank, don't know what I have. Can't treat the fish (same reason). Now I'm learning that bleach doesn't kill everything that is bad for fish, so even if I wipeout and start again.....I'll have the same problem.
I'm even starting to wonder about the tank and where it came from....it's used, a lady who is a huge fish fan up here, her husband asked her to get rid of 3 out of 7 tanks. This is one of them. She seems very dedicated to her fishes; but I know she's VERY frail and elderly....so maybe the tank was compromised before it even got here. And if it was compromised by something that bleach can't kill.....it would never show up in water tests....ugh
"I'm not *THAT* kind of hunter"
-
Crissyloach
- Posts: 289
- Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:41 am
If it is at the fish store too, then it must be your water, or the person who is supplying the fish. Though the person supplying is most likely not the same one for every fish, The disease could spread from tank to tank (eg.net, siphon...).
Is it only theese fish affected and you have more than 1 tank, or is this the only one? If it is this tank, and you have others, be carful using the same things in different tanks (eg. net siphon...).
* Type of fish that are affected (common name and latin name if possible - common names vary worldwide, latin names don't!).
* How long has the tank been set up for?
* Size of tank (dimensions and volume).
* How is the tank being filtered?
* Water temperature.
* Your maintenance regime (e.g. how often water changes are carried out, what percentage of the water is changed each time, how often you clean your filter/s and how do you do this?)
* Has anything new been added to the tank recently? (fish, plants, live food, decor etc).
* What other fish are in the tank?
* As detailed a description as possible of the symptoms the fish are exhibiting (remember a photograph can speak a thousand words).
* How long ago the affected fish were added to the tank, and how long the fish have been displaying symptoms.
* Your current water parameters - ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH (please don't say 'my water is fine, the levels are ok', we would like actual numbers from the test results).
*Do you have snails in this tank? If so, where/how did you get them?
Look for:
-loss of appetite
-Loss of weight (really skinny)
-Folded fins
-Eye protrusion
-Deformed body
-Stay near the surface of the water
-Skin defects, blood spots, open wounds
-Scales loosen, and fall off
-General swelling
-Lots of waste
-Fins rotting (you said that about the betta, but look for in the other fish)
-bloat
-scales standing out
-scales change colour
-trouble swimming
-clamped fins
-white spots
-grey/white fuzzy areas
-open sores
-red streaks
-white film on eyes
-enlarged eyes
-swimming on side or upside down
OR anything that is not normal.
If you look for the symtoms listed above, and answer the questions, it will be a lot easier to find out what is happening.
***Just in case- wash your hands very well after maintenance, putting hands in the tank, touching equipment, or anything fish related.
Is it only theese fish affected and you have more than 1 tank, or is this the only one? If it is this tank, and you have others, be carful using the same things in different tanks (eg. net siphon...).
* Type of fish that are affected (common name and latin name if possible - common names vary worldwide, latin names don't!).
* How long has the tank been set up for?
* Size of tank (dimensions and volume).
* How is the tank being filtered?
* Water temperature.
* Your maintenance regime (e.g. how often water changes are carried out, what percentage of the water is changed each time, how often you clean your filter/s and how do you do this?)
* Has anything new been added to the tank recently? (fish, plants, live food, decor etc).
* What other fish are in the tank?
* As detailed a description as possible of the symptoms the fish are exhibiting (remember a photograph can speak a thousand words).
* How long ago the affected fish were added to the tank, and how long the fish have been displaying symptoms.
* Your current water parameters - ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH (please don't say 'my water is fine, the levels are ok', we would like actual numbers from the test results).
*Do you have snails in this tank? If so, where/how did you get them?
Look for:
-loss of appetite
-Loss of weight (really skinny)
-Folded fins
-Eye protrusion
-Deformed body
-Stay near the surface of the water
-Skin defects, blood spots, open wounds
-Scales loosen, and fall off
-General swelling
-Lots of waste
-Fins rotting (you said that about the betta, but look for in the other fish)
-bloat
-scales standing out
-scales change colour
-trouble swimming
-clamped fins
-white spots
-grey/white fuzzy areas
-open sores
-red streaks
-white film on eyes
-enlarged eyes
-swimming on side or upside down
OR anything that is not normal.
If you look for the symtoms listed above, and answer the questions, it will be a lot easier to find out what is happening.
***Just in case- wash your hands very well after maintenance, putting hands in the tank, touching equipment, or anything fish related.
Current betta count...Too many.
Answers to questions re: tank
We have two tanks. One is 2.5G for one betta. The other is referenced below.
Fish affected are Betta's and long fin zebra danios.
The tank is about 2-3 months old
The tank was cycled using plants and "live" substrate.
It's sizes are : 12" from the wall to the front; four feet across, 20 inches from waters top to the bottom of the tank. 55 Gallon.
* How is the tank being filtered?
We have a UV filter, an additional current creator on the other side to keep the water moving side to side and through the UV; and we have a Penguin BioWheel 350 as our filter.
Currently the temperature is 81 degrees; we usually keep it at 77.8 or so, but have it higher in case we're dealing with velvet
Every week, we change about 30-40% of the water. We siphon it out and vacuum the gravel while doing that. I also take the fake plants out and scrub them (no soap, just lay them in a towel and rub vigorously, great for removing algae). We clean the filters every other change; I don't personally do it, so I don't know how it's done...
Nothing new has been added to the tank in a few weeks...except my betta.
Other fish in the tank: 7 danios, 2 Golden Dojo's, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
My betta's fins started looking crap the day after I put him in the big tank. Whitish, ragged edges, bits just falling off. He also began to stay at the very top of the aquarium, and was VERY lethargic. His fins were clamped. When I saw his sides (see picture at top of this link!), I pulled him out and put him in a private small tank (his old tank actually).
He did not get better. I found him nose down in a fake flower, sadly, still breathing, but nothing else. When I pulled him out to euthanize him, I saw that the patchy bit on his sides actually looked like a scrape, or a burn, and it had a lot of slime attached to that area. His fins were gone at this point.
Since we cycled our tank, I've put four betta's in it, and every single one of them has this happen. We had a couple of bouts with ich, but now everyone looks clear. The only other fish death recently was a dojo that just wouldn't eat. And now one of our Danios died this morning. He looked like he had textbook case of velvet. Very different from what Bettas had.
Water = Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 Nitrates 2.5 PH is 7.5
We do have snails in our tank. We think we got them from a horrible lfs when we bought a plant from them.
I think I answered all the questions. Hopefully the pic above and all this info might shed some light on what I'm battling, someday.
thank you for your help, it's really appreciated.
Fish affected are Betta's and long fin zebra danios.
The tank is about 2-3 months old
The tank was cycled using plants and "live" substrate.
It's sizes are : 12" from the wall to the front; four feet across, 20 inches from waters top to the bottom of the tank. 55 Gallon.
* How is the tank being filtered?
We have a UV filter, an additional current creator on the other side to keep the water moving side to side and through the UV; and we have a Penguin BioWheel 350 as our filter.
Currently the temperature is 81 degrees; we usually keep it at 77.8 or so, but have it higher in case we're dealing with velvet
Every week, we change about 30-40% of the water. We siphon it out and vacuum the gravel while doing that. I also take the fake plants out and scrub them (no soap, just lay them in a towel and rub vigorously, great for removing algae). We clean the filters every other change; I don't personally do it, so I don't know how it's done...
Nothing new has been added to the tank in a few weeks...except my betta.
Other fish in the tank: 7 danios, 2 Golden Dojo's, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
My betta's fins started looking crap the day after I put him in the big tank. Whitish, ragged edges, bits just falling off. He also began to stay at the very top of the aquarium, and was VERY lethargic. His fins were clamped. When I saw his sides (see picture at top of this link!), I pulled him out and put him in a private small tank (his old tank actually).
He did not get better. I found him nose down in a fake flower, sadly, still breathing, but nothing else. When I pulled him out to euthanize him, I saw that the patchy bit on his sides actually looked like a scrape, or a burn, and it had a lot of slime attached to that area. His fins were gone at this point.
Since we cycled our tank, I've put four betta's in it, and every single one of them has this happen. We had a couple of bouts with ich, but now everyone looks clear. The only other fish death recently was a dojo that just wouldn't eat. And now one of our Danios died this morning. He looked like he had textbook case of velvet. Very different from what Bettas had.
Water = Ammonia 0 Nitrites 0 Nitrates 2.5 PH is 7.5
We do have snails in our tank. We think we got them from a horrible lfs when we bought a plant from them.
I think I answered all the questions. Hopefully the pic above and all this info might shed some light on what I'm battling, someday.
thank you for your help, it's really appreciated.
"I'm not *THAT* kind of hunter"
-
Crissyloach
- Posts: 289
- Joined: Tue Jul 06, 2010 10:41 am
found this on a fish disease site-
Symptoms:
Oodinium is commonly called "Velvet" because infected fish have a yellowish-brown "velvety" coating that covers its body. When the gills are affected rapid gill movements will be seen. Infected fish often scrape against objects in the aquarium in an effort to remove the parasite. In severe infestations, the skin may peel away in strips. Lack of appetite and lethargy usually accompany these other symptoms.
Cause:
The dinoflagellate Oodinium pillularis. This parasite feeds on the flesh of the fish, destroying the cells of its skin and can even infect its internal organs. This parasite is highly contagious due to the fact that it can survive up to 24 hours without a host. When without a host, they drop to the bottom of the aquarium, where they multiply and wait to find a new host.
Treatment:
Because Oodinium (velvet) is extremely contagious, all fish, and the aquarium they inhabit, should be treated. Recommended medications include Paraform, Acriflavin, Quick Cure, and Formalin.
I would try it. Perhaps wait until another person agrees- I have never dealt with this.
Symptoms:
Oodinium is commonly called "Velvet" because infected fish have a yellowish-brown "velvety" coating that covers its body. When the gills are affected rapid gill movements will be seen. Infected fish often scrape against objects in the aquarium in an effort to remove the parasite. In severe infestations, the skin may peel away in strips. Lack of appetite and lethargy usually accompany these other symptoms.
Cause:
The dinoflagellate Oodinium pillularis. This parasite feeds on the flesh of the fish, destroying the cells of its skin and can even infect its internal organs. This parasite is highly contagious due to the fact that it can survive up to 24 hours without a host. When without a host, they drop to the bottom of the aquarium, where they multiply and wait to find a new host.
Treatment:
Because Oodinium (velvet) is extremely contagious, all fish, and the aquarium they inhabit, should be treated. Recommended medications include Paraform, Acriflavin, Quick Cure, and Formalin.
I would try it. Perhaps wait until another person agrees- I have never dealt with this.
Current betta count...Too many.
Rotting fins can be due to any of several things.
Water parameters: Ammonia can burn the tender tissue in the fins, leaving them open to infection.
Bacterial infection from several organisms. One is Flavobacteria columnaris. This one can also infect the body of the fish, usually looking like a grey or white patch. The patch on side of the Betta in the picture is similar in area and shape, but the color is wrong. This disease is worst with higher temperatures and high nitrates (Are your nitrates really 2.5? Tests do not usually read this accurately. Maybe you mean 25 ppm?)
There are other bacteria that can cause fin rot.
Treating with antibiotics and lots of water changes usually gets rid of most bacterial causes of fin rot. Bacteria that has invaded the body is harder to treat, and antibiotic food may be needed.
Fungus, especially if the fins are already compromised, for example by ammonia burn, or nipping. Usually fungus does not invade healthy tissue, but attacks a wound, an area with some dead cells. It will look puffy white, then look off white as debris from the tank may land in the fungus.
Nipping.
Danios are noted nippers, especially of long fins. Bettas are standing targets for them.
What I would do:
Lower the water temperature to appropriate levels for these fish.
Dojo Loaches, Danios and Bristlenose Plecos are happier at temperatures in the low 70s, mid 70s at the most.
Do not try to keep Bettas or any other long finned fish with the Danios.
To sterilize am empty tank and equipment you can follow a procedure of treating it with one material, then follow that with another, then another... thoroughly removing each material before going on to something else.
Bleach is very good, kills most disease organisms, and can be removed with just a little work and time.
Rubbing alcohol is the best thing to kill Mycobacteriosis.
Salt (very strong solution) will kill many parasites.
Potassium permanganate is another material that has been used to kill possible disease organisms in aquariums.
Alum is one of the best to kill snail eggs.
Hydrogen peroxide is another good material for this purpose.
Some things used as decorations, and substrate may be baked or boiled to kill just about anything.
Simply drying out the tank, rocks, equipment and so on, and exposing it to the ultra violet in the sun will kill a lot of things.
Each of the materials and procedures has precautions for the person handling it, and specific ways to remove it from the tank, deactivate it.
Water parameters: Ammonia can burn the tender tissue in the fins, leaving them open to infection.
Bacterial infection from several organisms. One is Flavobacteria columnaris. This one can also infect the body of the fish, usually looking like a grey or white patch. The patch on side of the Betta in the picture is similar in area and shape, but the color is wrong. This disease is worst with higher temperatures and high nitrates (Are your nitrates really 2.5? Tests do not usually read this accurately. Maybe you mean 25 ppm?)
There are other bacteria that can cause fin rot.
Treating with antibiotics and lots of water changes usually gets rid of most bacterial causes of fin rot. Bacteria that has invaded the body is harder to treat, and antibiotic food may be needed.
Fungus, especially if the fins are already compromised, for example by ammonia burn, or nipping. Usually fungus does not invade healthy tissue, but attacks a wound, an area with some dead cells. It will look puffy white, then look off white as debris from the tank may land in the fungus.
Nipping.
Danios are noted nippers, especially of long fins. Bettas are standing targets for them.
What I would do:
Lower the water temperature to appropriate levels for these fish.
Dojo Loaches, Danios and Bristlenose Plecos are happier at temperatures in the low 70s, mid 70s at the most.
Do not try to keep Bettas or any other long finned fish with the Danios.
To sterilize am empty tank and equipment you can follow a procedure of treating it with one material, then follow that with another, then another... thoroughly removing each material before going on to something else.
Bleach is very good, kills most disease organisms, and can be removed with just a little work and time.
Rubbing alcohol is the best thing to kill Mycobacteriosis.
Salt (very strong solution) will kill many parasites.
Potassium permanganate is another material that has been used to kill possible disease organisms in aquariums.
Alum is one of the best to kill snail eggs.
Hydrogen peroxide is another good material for this purpose.
Some things used as decorations, and substrate may be baked or boiled to kill just about anything.
Simply drying out the tank, rocks, equipment and so on, and exposing it to the ultra violet in the sun will kill a lot of things.
Each of the materials and procedures has precautions for the person handling it, and specific ways to remove it from the tank, deactivate it.
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.
Happy fish keeping!
Happy fish keeping!
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