I have been setting up new 46 gal tank...about 6 weeks now, with plants, and algae is becoming problem...have uv sterilizer. It looks like dust strings settling on plants and driftwood, also there is another type that is slimy, settling on top of a Bolbitus. I have had lighting on 16 hrs a day, thought that would help plants getting established...I will reduce that. What else may I be able to do?
I have the first type (the one that looks like dust accumulation) of algae in my established 44 gal tank, with fish in it. I have seen development of a brown algae on cave/rock in that tank as well..I had put a java ball from this tank into the new 46 gal one, don't know if that caused contamination...but if I could find a way to control it, would be very good.
algae control
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Re: algae control
Algae in a planted tank is a complex issue. Best thing to do is to research at some of the planted tank sites.
1) Nutrients: Plants and algae need N, P, K, and a dozen other nutrients. When these are in the substrate, less in the water, the rooted plants will use them, and there is less available for the algae. If the plants are deficient in even one, then they will not be able to remove the others from the water, leaving those nutrients to feed the algae.
The ONE nutrient most often overlooked is carbon. About half the plants we grow in aquariums can use the carbon in carbonate (KH). But the other half need CO2. Even the ones that can make some use of KH would prefer CO2. If you are not adding a carbon source, then no matter what else you are doing (lights, fertilizers) the plants will not be growing their most efficient rate. Seachem Excel is a liquid source of carbon that is accepted by most, but not all plants. Valisneria and Anacharis are 2 plants that do not seem to like it, and may die. DIY CO2 with yeast and sugar is not very efficient for tanks over 20 gallons, but if you wanted to set up several bottles, it might work.
2) Light: Higher plants (most aquarium plants, but not all) need a certain range of colors, certain wave lengths of light. If these are not available (no matter how bright or how long the lights are on) then the plants will not be growing at their most efficient rate, and the fertilizers are again, not getting used, so algae can use them. Read about the bulbs you are using, on the package, or on line. See if they offer the wavelengths that are most important to plants.
One way of running the lights that may help: Run the lights for several hours, then turn them off for at least 2 hours, then on again for several hours. For example: 7 hours on, 2 off, 7 hours on would give you your 16 hour day, with a siesta. I do not know if anyone figured out how this reduces the algae, but it seems to help in some cases.
3) Water circulation: Brings fertilizer and carbon to the plants. Too much can cause stress to the plants. If the plants are more or less waving gently the water movement is probably fine.
4) Animals that eat algae: Are almost always part of a planted tank set up. Algae and plant needs are too similar to get the tank so carefully balanced that there will be zero algae. Depending on what fish you want in the tank (hard water, soft water, large or small...) you can look into fish that eat algae, perhaps shrimp (only with the smallest fish).
1) Nutrients: Plants and algae need N, P, K, and a dozen other nutrients. When these are in the substrate, less in the water, the rooted plants will use them, and there is less available for the algae. If the plants are deficient in even one, then they will not be able to remove the others from the water, leaving those nutrients to feed the algae.
The ONE nutrient most often overlooked is carbon. About half the plants we grow in aquariums can use the carbon in carbonate (KH). But the other half need CO2. Even the ones that can make some use of KH would prefer CO2. If you are not adding a carbon source, then no matter what else you are doing (lights, fertilizers) the plants will not be growing their most efficient rate. Seachem Excel is a liquid source of carbon that is accepted by most, but not all plants. Valisneria and Anacharis are 2 plants that do not seem to like it, and may die. DIY CO2 with yeast and sugar is not very efficient for tanks over 20 gallons, but if you wanted to set up several bottles, it might work.
2) Light: Higher plants (most aquarium plants, but not all) need a certain range of colors, certain wave lengths of light. If these are not available (no matter how bright or how long the lights are on) then the plants will not be growing at their most efficient rate, and the fertilizers are again, not getting used, so algae can use them. Read about the bulbs you are using, on the package, or on line. See if they offer the wavelengths that are most important to plants.
One way of running the lights that may help: Run the lights for several hours, then turn them off for at least 2 hours, then on again for several hours. For example: 7 hours on, 2 off, 7 hours on would give you your 16 hour day, with a siesta. I do not know if anyone figured out how this reduces the algae, but it seems to help in some cases.
3) Water circulation: Brings fertilizer and carbon to the plants. Too much can cause stress to the plants. If the plants are more or less waving gently the water movement is probably fine.
4) Animals that eat algae: Are almost always part of a planted tank set up. Algae and plant needs are too similar to get the tank so carefully balanced that there will be zero algae. Depending on what fish you want in the tank (hard water, soft water, large or small...) you can look into fish that eat algae, perhaps shrimp (only with the smallest fish).
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.
Happy fish keeping!
Happy fish keeping!
Re: algae control
thanks for the info!
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