PHOTOS

[FranM]

In the past I’d checked KH of tap and it is exactly the same as tank. No buffering capability at all. Tap was 0-.5 today (like tank).

GH was same as tank and it’s really about 3-3.5 so I added another quarter cup of crushed coral to the quarter or third that was already there. Tank ph 6.8. I didn’t check tap ph today but I know it comes out a full point higher to 7.8 easily from tap.

On a positive note the medicated feed I made is working well. The knife appearance is much more muted.

And on a second positive note the coloring is better too. Water change may have helped that.

[NancyD]

Loachloach, I bought into the TDS "thing" before I loaned my TDS meter to a "no water changing, top up only" friend. Hers were the same as mine. We both have similar amounts of plants & fish, similar water, semi-heavy planting, no ferts. I was shocked!!

I still believe in water changes for fish & tank health, but her numbers didn't support that premise...Just shows there's always something different going on in our tanks than we can easily quantify. There isn't just 1 way to do stuff that works

[Loachloach]

I still believe in water changes for fish & tank health, but her numbers didn't support that premise...Just shows there's always something different going on in our tanks than we can easily quantify.

What you monitor is the actual rise in TDS in the tank vs tap water TDS and base your judgement on that. A TDS meter won't lie, unless its needs calibration, so chances are her tap water originally had lower TDS than yours, thus although both of you arrived at the same TDS, the actual rise in her tank is way bigger. The rise is normally due to pollutio in the tank. Plus feeding habits, size of fish, etc... plays a role. One needs to measure the tap water used for water changes, then keep their tank's TDS close to what they measured in fresh clean tap. You can't compare two different tanks based on final TDS measure. The actual TDS is irrelevant. It is the TDS increase from tap water one needs to prevent. And water changes are the way to go.

[NancyD]

No, we had similar tap water too, same water co. & we both checked. I think the rise for both of us was ~100.

Fran, I'm glad your clown is doing better Tell us about your medicated feed (again, if you did already).

[FranM]

Thanks, Nancy.

I’m going to order a TDS meter. What should ideal conditions be in a tropical freshwater tank. Sorry if I overlooked that info.

So for the medicated feed I bought a product called Metro which is by Hiakari. It’s in granulated form. The website gives directions on how to make medicated food. It called for fish flakes, unflavored gelatin and Metro. Mixed it up according to directions and that was it. I will try to get an updated picture.

[NancyD]

I hadn't read of using gelatin, just soaking food, (flakes, pellets, etc) in medication. Interesting.

I have an inexpensive Hanna TDS 3 I bought on ebay several years ago, less than $20 including shipping. I shoot for less than ~100 above tap water between water changes.I'm only a casual, occasional tester but my tap can vary seasonally. Less variation near SF than on the Boston area. I had quite hard water in Mich. & Del., before I had a TDS meter. Boston-ish & SF-ish are both much softer but different pH. It's just another way for us to understand our local water.

[FranM]

Thanks.

Just to expand on the medicated food, the gelatin must’ve been included for the ability to cut up portions and freeze. I have much more than what I’ll probably need. I just want it to do its job. Seems to be anyway.

[Loachloach]

Fingers crossed the medicated food works for your loach.

I’m going to order a TDS meter. What should ideal conditions be in a tropical freshwater tank. Sorry if I overlooked that info.

You are not looking to achieve any magical number.

TDS meters measure conductivity but most can measure it in ppm or micro siemens. Pick whichever, doesn't matter, and stick to it.

In simple terms, measure your tap water TDS/conductivity take your time until the meter does the reading if needs be.

Then measure your tank's water TDS/conductivity.

Take one figure from the other, what's the difference?

Basically when one sets up a tank, they use their tap water, which normally has quite stable TDS/conductivity if the water company is dong their job. Mine is pretty rock solid in terms of TDS/conductivity.

You use this water to do water changes as well.

So if the TDS in the tank has risen well above tap's water TDS, it is always due to pollution, with the exception of when one has rocks in the tank or doses plant fertilisers. So use your tap water as your base measure and the value you are striving to achieve back in your tank via water changes.

So comparing tap and tank TDS and the increase of TDS from tap to tank will be your guide to how things are. Simply, if the difference is quite high, or if the difference increases in time, one needs to do more water changes.

I know Nancy says she's ok with 100ppm difference between tap and tank. I don't let any such difference, max 15-20ppm, normally a lot lower. When I had soil substrate, as the substrate leaches into the water column, I'd allow a base measure higher than my tap and ensure that stays stable via water changes. Just don't allow the TDS to increase in time...

When one first buys a TDS meter, they may find out they have a huge swing in comparison to their tap water...If that's the case, I'd do many water changes until I get as close to the tap water reading as feasibly possible. Then start monitoring the TDS rise in the tank from there. See how much it increases per week and how much water changes are needed to bring it down back to tap water reading.

Sorry if it's too long, or confusing. I just tried to explain what I normally do.

[NancyD]

Loachloach, I'm shocked that you can get your tank down to tap water TDS, even as a goal! Even 20ppm seems incredible to me. I only change water once/week-10 days no matter what anymore (land of drought & my laziness). But like I said, I almost never test. I do have root tabs & soft enough water for snail shells to erode. Last test was 80ppm difference & I was ok with that.

I think you must live in a different area than I have done, to have stable year around tap water TDS. Reservoirs vs deep wells in MA; snow melt/rainwater vs drought lowered reservoirs in CA. Both had a seasonal differences including the awful smelling & tasting dead algaified tap we had here for a few weeks. I skipped a few water changes to not add that to my tanks but I did not test TDS. It wouldn't have mattered what it was, I wouldn't drink or expect my fish to swim in it. Better to have higher nitrate & TDS & slowly change it out over several WCs.

TDS is just a tool as are other water tests. I'm certainly not trying to pick a fight, but as in many things, YMMV, too many variables. I think we all want to do the best we can by our fish...within our particular abilities & circumstances.

Fran, it sounds like you're doing well by your skinny, blotchy (or not so much!), freckled loach. Continued success for you both! Please keep us updated on your progress.

[Loachloach]

Well, its a problem when your source water quality is not up to scratch.
I live in Europe, strict water quality rules here.
In terms of my tank, perhaps it also matters that I have very large emersed plants which do lower the TDS naturally. I am also strict large water change person, minimum 50-80% a week.

[FranM]

I received the TDS meter and I’m wondering if it’s damaged or if it’s like everyone else’s. The probes used to measure water— mine has two probes and a third spacethat looks like it could’ve been a probe but is broken OR the meter only comes with two probes and the third thing is supposed to have nothing. It was difficult to get a pic but I will try.

https://s26.postimg.org/50ofyzy8p/81449 ... EBAFEE.jpg

[FranM]

I tested the tap and tank. Tap is 83. Tank is 145.

After 40% water change, 118.

[NancyD]

My TDS meter has 2 thin metal probes & a third thicker, shorter 1 with a whitish end, kind of a blob. Yours look shorter but maybe similar, hard to tell.

My tap water was 27 last week, 107 in my tank. I didn't test after an almost 50% WC. I "think" tap was more like ~100 or so in summer.

[Loachloach]

Two probes only, the third isn't a proble. So it looks just fine.

Your water is extremely soft. The TDS difference isn't that bad after the water change. To be honest, if you get it down to around a 100 it will pretty much ensure there's no pollution that can affect any fish. However, your water is very soft, which is by most fishkeepers very desirable but hard to keep stable because of lack of buffering. Consider that when the TDS rises, the buffering goes down...and with water like yours, one has to be on top of things, unless you enhance the water but that's a lot of hassle long term...

How's the loach doing?

[FranM]

I don’t have any live plants. I keep Golden pothos roots (not rotting) in the filter. The media hasn’t been changed, just rinsed a couple times per month.

If I use a buffer I’m afraid of getting ridiculous swings. My clown is ok. Not completely out of the woods. Maybe it needs something else but I won’t know for sure ever.

It all depresses me really. I try hard to make a good environment but who knows, the loaches could just drop dead one day like my last trio of yoyos last year. Parameters were probably very similar.

Thank you.