Kh, Gh...dH

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Ded1
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Kh, Gh...dH

Post by Ded1 » Sat Jun 09, 2007 9:31 am

Can somebody please explain to me, what is more important to watch out for clown loaches regarding hardness of water. kh or gH ( having little problem trying to figure this one out).

Because an article about Clowns, states only " Maximum DH: 12"

What DH ( that of kH or Gh ) ? Or am I getting this one wrong from the start. Totally confused :?

Diana
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Post by Diana » Sat Jun 09, 2007 12:16 pm

KH is also called Carbonates or Alkalinity. It is a measure of Carbonates.
Carbonates are probably the largest pH buffer in freshwater tanks, though organic matter can buffer the pH as well, and some aquarists use a Phosphate buffer for lower pH.

GH is General Hardness, a measure of Calcium and Magnesium.

Often the two go together, as one of the biggests sources of either in water is when water passes through rock or soil that is of a limestone origin. Limestone is mostly Calcium and Magnesium Carbonates. These dissolve at different rates depending on several facters, but in general, well water will be high in KH and GH and snow or rain water sources will be low.

KH and GH are measured in several different ways.
German Degrees of Hardness is abreviated DH.
Parts per Million abreviated ppm
milligrams per liter abreviated mg/l

There are 17.9 ppm in one DH.
ppm = mg/l
When I am thinking casually about converting from one to the other I ballpark the conversion at 20:1. Works for 'horseback numbers'.

Rivers and lakes are often filled from rain water or snow melt that has run over the soil or rocks and picked up some minerals, including the components that go into KH and GH, but not very much. The water tends to be soft, with readings of about 3-5 degrees for both KH and GH. pH is easily changed in such water, because there is not much KH to act as a buffer. If the water flows over lots of organic matter (Think rain forest floor) the water will be acidic.
The Rift Lakes of Africa are filled by rivers that are not surrounded by a lot of plants, and they have high evapration rates. The minerals in these lakes are concentrated. Very high GH and KH, and therefore high pH. The oceans are a more extreme example of this.

In an aquarium: Small amounts of KH do not stabilize the ph very well, so the pH can change fast, and a large change when just small amounts of something is added. Generally a KH under 3 degrees is not good. At about 3 degrees the pH will be acidic, usually in the low 6's, but this is somewhat dependent on the other minerals/ chemicals present. For my Discus I keep a lot of Peat Moss in the filter, and the KH is about 3 degrees, pH 6.4, but I fertilize the plants, so the GH is about 5-6 degrees.

In my Lake Tanganyika tanks I raise the KH with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) and the GH with a mixed mineral blend that is a good source of plant fertilizers, as well as the minerals that are similar to Lake Tang.
pH 7.8, KH 10, GH 10.

Now... back to Loaches: They come from several habitats, but so far my understanding is that mostly they are not too particular about the exact numbers, but stable conditions are best. (This is true of most fish: Get somewhere in their target range, and keep it stable; and most fish have a wide range of conditions that they will thrive in)
I keep several species of Loaches in my softer water tanks, and one tank that is not as hard water as the Lake Tang tank, and they are doing well.
Clowns and Yoyos: Discus tank.
B. kubotai: pH 7.5, GH and KH about 8 degrees (Tank mates are mostly Rainbowfish)
Kuhlies (several species, different tanks) pH 6.8 to 7.2, GH about 5, KH varies from 3-5
Schisturas (I think 2 species) and sids pH 7.2, GH 5, KH 5
Hillstream (I do not know what species) pH 7.2, GH 5 KH 5

You see a lot of my tanks with pH 7.2, GH and KH about 5. This is similar to my tap water, with just a little bit of fertilizer added for the plants.

My understanding is that references to DH in the books are referring to GH. I know the Baench Atlas specifically states that is what they are talking about. Any reference to pH will also suggest the KH level, since these two are so closely linked.

How to set up your tank:
1) test your tap water.
2) Ask at the store what their water is like (pH, KH and GH)
3) Make your Quarantine tank match the store's water, even adding salt if that is what they do. :-(
4) While the new fish are in quarantine, gradually shift their water to match the water chemistry in your main tank(s)

To set up your main tanks: It is MUCH easier to use your tap water if it is at all suitable, than to try to change it. Making your tap water harder is relatively easy, but then at every water change you need to do this. (It is automatic and easy for me)
Making your tap water softer is a more difficult project, usually involving reverse osmosis filters. I did this for a while, but when the RO unit died of old age, I gave up.
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.

Happy fish keeping!

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Ded1
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Post by Ded1 » Sat Jun 09, 2007 1:56 pm

When I saw first how long reply is, I said to myself right away: " Damn, I am not gonna get this ".

But you wrote it in a way that I DID understood it. Thank you soooo much for your effort and time to write it down. You have no idea how much you helped. Now I "understand" my watter better and unfortunately have to work a lot to change it parameters.

i finally get it :shock:

Thanks again! I am without words :)

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Ded1
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Post by Ded1 » Sun Jun 17, 2007 9:39 am

Crazy. Just finished testing my kh and gh.

kh = 11
gh = 1

How can gh be so low? Any idea how to make it go up?

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KLKelly
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Post by KLKelly » Mon Jun 18, 2007 11:09 am

I would retest. I'm not sure. I have a kh of 14 and a gh of 10. I am on well water.

I have switched to softened water on my 90G goldfish tank which brings GH down to 0. THey like a mid level GH... I bought a product to add back GH...

Its cichlid buffer. Here's a link...
http://www.aquariumsdelivered.co.uk/cat ... 213d385819

It is expensive here in Canada. I hear there is a way to do this cheap using ice melter (without additives)... maybe someone here has some cheap advice. You don't want to increase your kh anymore I would assume so make sure you get a product that does just GH.

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Ded1
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Post by Ded1 » Mon Jun 18, 2007 11:55 am

More and more people are telling me that I made something wrong with test and I now really think I did. I kinda hate those tests when you have to compare colours and than every second person have a different oppinion at looking at the colour and you never really now what is that parameter :roll:

kH is definetely right, but gH result is really screwed up :)

Will find another way. Thanks anyway.

rickey45
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Re: Kh, Gh...dH

Post by rickey45 » Mon Apr 25, 2011 3:26 am

Small amounts of KH do not stabilize the ph very well, so the pH can change fast, and a large change when just small amounts of something is added. Generally a KH under 3 degrees is not good. At about 3 degrees the pH will be acidic, usually in the low 6's, but this is somewhat dependent on the other minerals/ chemicals present. For my Discus I keep a lot of Peat Moss in the filter, and the KH is about 3 degrees, pH 6.4, but I fertilize the plants, so the GH is about 5-6 degrees.



Fish Tanks

UVvis
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Re: Kh, Gh...dH

Post by UVvis » Mon Apr 25, 2011 9:55 am

What is your pH?

Where does your municipal water come from?

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