Hi all,
We are moving about 5 hours away from our current home. I have read several other threads about how to pull this off but I want to make sure I am not missing anything obvious.
My fish are in a 75 gallon tank (4 clowns, about 11 small/medium dither, 5 cory cats, and a pleco). All I have as a spare is a 35 and a 10 gallon tank.
I have considered two options to pull this off.
Option 1:
1. Set up the 35 and 10 gal as a temp tank in our current home.
2. Move everyone over to them.
3. Break down the 75, move it to the new home, set it up and let it run for a few days.
4. Pack up and move the fish to the new home.
5. Store them in rubbermaid containers next to the tank in the new home while I slowly acclimate them to the new water.
Option 2:
1. Pack up the fish, break down the tank, move them at the same time
2. Set up the tank, store the fish in rubbermaid containers while I slowly acclimate them to the new water.
Option 2 obviously saves me an extra 10 hour drive, and would clearly be my preference. Do you see a benefit or a reason to make the extra trip just to set the tank up ahead of time? Since I will still have to acclimate the fish at the new house anyway?
Oh and any advice or tips on the actually packing up of the fish would be very helpful. I'm thinking insulated coolers or rubbermaid containers at this point. Is 5 hours pushing it?
Moving 75g, 5 hour drive
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Holdstrong
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:36 am
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I wrote this a while ago with generic instructions for most fish moves. I will add a few notes that might be applicable to your situation in parentheses.
BEFORE THE MOVE
A) Water chemistry.
When fish are moved to water that is different from what they were used to this can cause problems. If there is any way you can find out ahead of time what the water is like at the new location you can start acclimating the fish before the move. Test GH, KH, TDS and pH.
If the GH or KH is up to 2 degrees higher at the new place, this is OK.
If the GH or KH is no more than 1 degree lower at the new place, this is OK.
If the TDS is within 15% higher or 10% lower at the new place this is OK.
If the pH is within .2 either way, this is OK. The pH could vary even more, and is not likely to be a problem if the other tests are well within the safe limits.
If any test is beyond these numbers, then alter the aquarium water a little bit in that direction with each water change for a couple of weeks before the move. If the water is really way off you might need to bring some water with you from the old location, or buy reverse osmosis water at the new place and add minerals to make it into a transition sort of mix.
B) Disturbing the debris.
Start cleaning the tank ahead of time. A few really deep, thorough gravel vacs in the couple of weeks preceding the move can really help. Clean the filter several days or a week before the move. Allow the beneficial bacteria several days recovery time before the move. Do not clean the filter on the same day you move.
C) Assemble what you need.
Buckets, towels, packing material, ice chest… Several suggestions follow.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 1, PACKING
A) Do not feed the fish in the morning. (Less waste to add to the water)
B) Unplug, turn off all equipment.
C) Fill the containers the fish will be in about 25% water from the tank. Remaining space is for air. Separate the fish by species, and do not put too many in one container. If it is an aggressive species separate each fish. (This is especially imprtant with Loaches. THey seem to have a toxic ingredient in their slime coat. Pack only the same species together, and not too many. Loaches have spines that can puncture the bag, too. Double bag, and put the bags where leaks are not a problem. Check that they are not punching holes in the bags, but not too often, as just looking at them is stressful to them.) Add a stress relief product, such as Stress Coat. A product that locks up ammonia is great, too.
1) A 5 gallon bucket could hold 1.5 gallons of water and up to 6” of fish. Put the lid on right away! Longer trip = less fish per bucket.
2) Plastic bags similar to fish store bags can hold 2-6” of fish (larger fish = larger bags) Tie off the corners so the fish will not dive into the corners and get trapped. Double bag any fish with spines. Put the bags in a Styrofoam box or ice chest for insulation. Breather bags are available from Kordon. Follow their directions (full bag, proper stocking levels, proper packing)
D) Plants in separate buckets, bags or plastic storage containers. Cooler is better than too warm. About 65* to 75* is optimum for most tropical plants. Plants with stiff leaves may not need to be underwater if the container is sealed and humid. Plants could be wrapped in damp newspaper or paper towel and packed in plastic bags in boxes.
E) Filter media with nitrifying bacteria should be kept in a humid place, but does not need to be underwater. Cool is better than too warm, but not freezing. About 60* - 75* is optimum, cooler is OK. If the trip is less than an hour you could keep the media in the filter, just drain the water. For longer trips a separate container will allow the bacteria more oxygen. For example, dump all the media into a bucket with a few inches of water and seal it.
F) Substrate also has a lot of nitrifying bacteria, and can be heavy. Buckets intended for heavy stuff would be best. Do not leave it in the tank.
G) Driftwood could be kept damp in a garbage bag. Large rocks might be best carried one at a time. You will probably loose the bacteria on the rocks, but this is not enough to worry about.
H) All other equipment: Pack it so it won’t break. Wrap the tank and stand for protection.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 2, MOVING
A) A short move, a few minutes to a couple of hours is best done in one day. If you can choose to travel in mild weather, this is best. If you run the air conditioner or heater make sure the plants, fish and bacteria are away from the vents, in a location with a stable temperature. You can get a 12 volt air pump to help the fish. Try a store that specializes in equipment for boaters, they use such pumps to keep bait and catch alive. This will run off your car battery. Drill a couple of holes in the lids of the buckets and put an air line into each bucket with a gentle bubbler in the water. Keep the fish in the dark, it is less stressful.
B) A longer move (overnight, stop at motel) must be planned more carefully. Keep the fish, plants and bacteria in moderate temperatures. Air pump is even more important than for a short move. If you are really worried bring some water for water changes, and re-bag the fish every other day.
C) Longer than this you might consider shipping the fish to a friend or to an aquarium service company or a store near the new location. Then you will have more time to get the aquarium set up, and the fish will have a shorter travel time.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 3, ARRIVAL
A) Get the fish, plants and bacteria into a location with stable temperature.
B) Prepare as much new water as you will need. (Match GH, KH and TDS the best you can. Slightly harder is better than softer)
C) Set up the stand, and be sure it is level. Add tank, and equipment. (Do not plug in anything.)
D) Put substrate in the tank. Fill with water just below the substrate.
E) Add rocks, driftwood and plants. Mist the plants a lot.
F) Fill the tank but run the water in slowly onto a plate or sheet of plastic. Slow and gentle, it will seep into the substrate and not cloud the water.
G) Add Nitrospiros sp. of nitrifying bacteria, this replaces the nitrifying bacteria that may have died during the move. (Dr. Tim's One and Only, Tetra Safe Start)
H) Turn on and test the equipment. Adjust as needed.
I) Net the fish out of the buckets. The water the fish were moved with has a lot of ammonia and stress hormones. Do not add this to the tank.
J) Lights off the rest of the day. Feed only if the fish seem settled in well.
FIRST WEEK
A) Test daily for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate to be sure the bacteria have recovered. Water changes as needed.
B) Feed lightly for a few days if needed. If the fish and bacteria are well settled regular meals are fine.
C) Add plant fertilizer at ¼ the regular rate for a while. The plants need time to reestablish before they need or can use the full dose of fertilizer.
D) Monitor all the equipment to be sure it also has made the move OK. Heater and CO2 might need some adjustment.
BEFORE THE MOVE
A) Water chemistry.
When fish are moved to water that is different from what they were used to this can cause problems. If there is any way you can find out ahead of time what the water is like at the new location you can start acclimating the fish before the move. Test GH, KH, TDS and pH.
If the GH or KH is up to 2 degrees higher at the new place, this is OK.
If the GH or KH is no more than 1 degree lower at the new place, this is OK.
If the TDS is within 15% higher or 10% lower at the new place this is OK.
If the pH is within .2 either way, this is OK. The pH could vary even more, and is not likely to be a problem if the other tests are well within the safe limits.
If any test is beyond these numbers, then alter the aquarium water a little bit in that direction with each water change for a couple of weeks before the move. If the water is really way off you might need to bring some water with you from the old location, or buy reverse osmosis water at the new place and add minerals to make it into a transition sort of mix.
B) Disturbing the debris.
Start cleaning the tank ahead of time. A few really deep, thorough gravel vacs in the couple of weeks preceding the move can really help. Clean the filter several days or a week before the move. Allow the beneficial bacteria several days recovery time before the move. Do not clean the filter on the same day you move.
C) Assemble what you need.
Buckets, towels, packing material, ice chest… Several suggestions follow.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 1, PACKING
A) Do not feed the fish in the morning. (Less waste to add to the water)
B) Unplug, turn off all equipment.
C) Fill the containers the fish will be in about 25% water from the tank. Remaining space is for air. Separate the fish by species, and do not put too many in one container. If it is an aggressive species separate each fish. (This is especially imprtant with Loaches. THey seem to have a toxic ingredient in their slime coat. Pack only the same species together, and not too many. Loaches have spines that can puncture the bag, too. Double bag, and put the bags where leaks are not a problem. Check that they are not punching holes in the bags, but not too often, as just looking at them is stressful to them.) Add a stress relief product, such as Stress Coat. A product that locks up ammonia is great, too.
1) A 5 gallon bucket could hold 1.5 gallons of water and up to 6” of fish. Put the lid on right away! Longer trip = less fish per bucket.
2) Plastic bags similar to fish store bags can hold 2-6” of fish (larger fish = larger bags) Tie off the corners so the fish will not dive into the corners and get trapped. Double bag any fish with spines. Put the bags in a Styrofoam box or ice chest for insulation. Breather bags are available from Kordon. Follow their directions (full bag, proper stocking levels, proper packing)
D) Plants in separate buckets, bags or plastic storage containers. Cooler is better than too warm. About 65* to 75* is optimum for most tropical plants. Plants with stiff leaves may not need to be underwater if the container is sealed and humid. Plants could be wrapped in damp newspaper or paper towel and packed in plastic bags in boxes.
E) Filter media with nitrifying bacteria should be kept in a humid place, but does not need to be underwater. Cool is better than too warm, but not freezing. About 60* - 75* is optimum, cooler is OK. If the trip is less than an hour you could keep the media in the filter, just drain the water. For longer trips a separate container will allow the bacteria more oxygen. For example, dump all the media into a bucket with a few inches of water and seal it.
F) Substrate also has a lot of nitrifying bacteria, and can be heavy. Buckets intended for heavy stuff would be best. Do not leave it in the tank.
G) Driftwood could be kept damp in a garbage bag. Large rocks might be best carried one at a time. You will probably loose the bacteria on the rocks, but this is not enough to worry about.
H) All other equipment: Pack it so it won’t break. Wrap the tank and stand for protection.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 2, MOVING
A) A short move, a few minutes to a couple of hours is best done in one day. If you can choose to travel in mild weather, this is best. If you run the air conditioner or heater make sure the plants, fish and bacteria are away from the vents, in a location with a stable temperature. You can get a 12 volt air pump to help the fish. Try a store that specializes in equipment for boaters, they use such pumps to keep bait and catch alive. This will run off your car battery. Drill a couple of holes in the lids of the buckets and put an air line into each bucket with a gentle bubbler in the water. Keep the fish in the dark, it is less stressful.
B) A longer move (overnight, stop at motel) must be planned more carefully. Keep the fish, plants and bacteria in moderate temperatures. Air pump is even more important than for a short move. If you are really worried bring some water for water changes, and re-bag the fish every other day.
C) Longer than this you might consider shipping the fish to a friend or to an aquarium service company or a store near the new location. Then you will have more time to get the aquarium set up, and the fish will have a shorter travel time.
DAY OF THE MOVE part 3, ARRIVAL
A) Get the fish, plants and bacteria into a location with stable temperature.
B) Prepare as much new water as you will need. (Match GH, KH and TDS the best you can. Slightly harder is better than softer)
C) Set up the stand, and be sure it is level. Add tank, and equipment. (Do not plug in anything.)
D) Put substrate in the tank. Fill with water just below the substrate.
E) Add rocks, driftwood and plants. Mist the plants a lot.
F) Fill the tank but run the water in slowly onto a plate or sheet of plastic. Slow and gentle, it will seep into the substrate and not cloud the water.
G) Add Nitrospiros sp. of nitrifying bacteria, this replaces the nitrifying bacteria that may have died during the move. (Dr. Tim's One and Only, Tetra Safe Start)
H) Turn on and test the equipment. Adjust as needed.
I) Net the fish out of the buckets. The water the fish were moved with has a lot of ammonia and stress hormones. Do not add this to the tank.
J) Lights off the rest of the day. Feed only if the fish seem settled in well.
FIRST WEEK
A) Test daily for ammonia, nitrite and nitrate to be sure the bacteria have recovered. Water changes as needed.
B) Feed lightly for a few days if needed. If the fish and bacteria are well settled regular meals are fine.
C) Add plant fertilizer at ¼ the regular rate for a while. The plants need time to reestablish before they need or can use the full dose of fertilizer.
D) Monitor all the equipment to be sure it also has made the move OK. Heater and CO2 might need some adjustment.
38 tanks, 2 ponds over 4000 liters of water to keep clean and fresh.
Happy fish keeping!
Happy fish keeping!
I just moved my 75g last month, but a much shorter distance. I used a 30g and a 20g rubbermaid tubs, saran wrapped the tops, and wrapped them in packing blankets for insulation; for a longer trip, you may want to consider a cheap battery operated air pump. I transported all of my plants free floating in the tubs with the fish to give them something to hide under. once they got to the new place, I dropped a heater and airline in each tub and started working on setting up the tank. I think if you are keeping your filter media the same, and not scrubbing the substrate spotless, you should be fine doing the whole thing in one move, and it would probably be better for the fish to go right into their permament home than moving, and moving again.
good luck
good luck
Just call me Pierce
"Act Well Your Part - There All the Honor Lies"
"Act Well Your Part - There All the Honor Lies"
when my dad was moving his fish from england to ireland he just emptied half of the tank of its water keeping the water he took out in a bucket. he left the fish in the tank (except the biggest ones) and put it in the car with alot of padding to stop it sloshing about. he put the biggest fish in separate boxes using some of the water from the bucket. when he got to the house he just set up the tank with the smaller fish already in it and added the big ones again.
the whole journey took about 5 hours and all the fish survived! lucky!!
the whole journey took about 5 hours and all the fish survived! lucky!!
moo
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Holdstrong
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 11:36 am
- Location: Boston, MA
- Contact:
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