We are starting to plan a large clown loach tank. We realized we have a main house support beam under the middle of our living room so we are planning the tank to be a livingroom divider we can view from both sides.
We have space issues with our angelfish also, so we are considering an 8x2x2 foot (240 gal) tank that we can provide an area with less current for them but also an area suitable for our six clowns (currently 2-3 inches).
We are thinking of running 2 Eheim canisters rated for 160 gallons each but are not sure about how to set up the tank for both a strong current and a weaker one. Also we need to keep in mind equipment issues as far as viewing from both sides.
We would also like to stock other fish in the tank that are suitable with both the clowns and the angels.
Any suggestions would be welcome.
making plans--suggestions welcome
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- Emma Turner
- Posts: 8901
- Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2005 5:07 pm
- Location: Peterborough, UK
- Contact:
It's great to hear you are planning such a large tank for your clown loaches.
I would have concerns with it being a room divider though. You'd have to ensure you can pile up a lot of bogwood and rocky caves along the central portion of the aquarium, so the fish have someplace to run to if there was activity going on around all sides of the tank at once. It may be quite difficult to achieve this, and leave enough swimming space in a tank that is only 2ft wide.
It is easy enough to create areas of both more intense and less flow. You just need to be able to place tall pieces of decor here and there to break up the flow from the filter returns/powerheads. The fish will find where they are most comfortable.
With regards to the filtration, you'd be better of going with 3 of those filters rather than 2 (or else think about upgrading the 2 that are planned). Most manufacturers are rather liberal with the truth when it comes to giving out the output on their filters. This maximum figure is usually quoted when taking into account the media inside being free of debris, the pipes being free of any build-up that accumulates over time, the distance that the filter has to pump the water up to your tank etc etc.
The only way you can avoid seeing the equipment is by having the tank drilled with sump filtration. You could also keep the heaters in the sump or else invest in thermofilters.
With regards to tankmates, we have an 8ft tank at work with clown loaches and XL angelfish. Other fish in this tank include shoals of Congo tetras, Botia striata, Botia histrionica, Botia kubotai, Botia dario, Corydoras sterbai, Garra fuliginosa, and Ancistrus sp.
Hope this helps,
Emma


It is easy enough to create areas of both more intense and less flow. You just need to be able to place tall pieces of decor here and there to break up the flow from the filter returns/powerheads. The fish will find where they are most comfortable.
With regards to the filtration, you'd be better of going with 3 of those filters rather than 2 (or else think about upgrading the 2 that are planned). Most manufacturers are rather liberal with the truth when it comes to giving out the output on their filters. This maximum figure is usually quoted when taking into account the media inside being free of debris, the pipes being free of any build-up that accumulates over time, the distance that the filter has to pump the water up to your tank etc etc.
The only way you can avoid seeing the equipment is by having the tank drilled with sump filtration. You could also keep the heaters in the sump or else invest in thermofilters.
With regards to tankmates, we have an 8ft tank at work with clown loaches and XL angelfish. Other fish in this tank include shoals of Congo tetras, Botia striata, Botia histrionica, Botia kubotai, Botia dario, Corydoras sterbai, Garra fuliginosa, and Ancistrus sp.
Hope this helps,
Emma

East of the Sun, West of the Moon.

Emma, we like the thermofilters so we were thinking about two Eheim 2128s because they don't sell a Pro III that is heated in the US. Do you think two 2128s and a non heated 2026 would work? What Eheim combo would you recommend?
A sump would be a good idea but we're not sure we want to add another complication to the setup. My hubby is already trying to figure out how he wants to build the stand and he has always hated plumbing.
We are also thinking to put a UV sterilizer inline with one of the canisters. We are a bit plumbing challanged and wonder how others plumb the UV.
Also... a phosphate reactor would be a good idea too.
Many things to think about. But, an exciting project.
A sump would be a good idea but we're not sure we want to add another complication to the setup. My hubby is already trying to figure out how he wants to build the stand and he has always hated plumbing.
We are also thinking to put a UV sterilizer inline with one of the canisters. We are a bit plumbing challanged and wonder how others plumb the UV.
Also... a phosphate reactor would be a good idea too.
Many things to think about. But, an exciting project.

i would go with a sump
them canisters are gonna be just as much of an eye sore with 3 or 4 of them on there
a sump is alot easier then a canister
you can run the uv and heaters in the sump under the tank
and nothing will be inline
you can attach a uv to the side of the sump
and have the powerhead run it in the water with your heaters
this is how i had my sump on my 180
as far as drilling the tank
i dont know what to say
all my plumbing was external
inline uv are tuff to sell
as most uvs require a very slow flow of water
an ac 20 powerhead is good for a uv
and it is all very easy to set up in a sump
the only other way i had mine set up was
i cut 2 holes into one of my tops plastic parts
and had the uv on top of the top
and the powerhead was right below it in the water
have fun with your project
and keep us updated
them canisters are gonna be just as much of an eye sore with 3 or 4 of them on there
a sump is alot easier then a canister
you can run the uv and heaters in the sump under the tank
and nothing will be inline
you can attach a uv to the side of the sump
and have the powerhead run it in the water with your heaters
this is how i had my sump on my 180
as far as drilling the tank
i dont know what to say
all my plumbing was external
inline uv are tuff to sell
as most uvs require a very slow flow of water
an ac 20 powerhead is good for a uv
and it is all very easy to set up in a sump
the only other way i had mine set up was
i cut 2 holes into one of my tops plastic parts
and had the uv on top of the top
and the powerhead was right below it in the water
have fun with your project
and keep us updated
- Emma Turner
- Posts: 8901
- Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2005 5:07 pm
- Location: Peterborough, UK
- Contact:
I'd highly recommend the Pro III's because they have so much media space, an excellent turnover rate, and a really good pre-filter feature. Because there is so much room, you can easily fit a huge bag of Rowaphos in (we do!) and then you wouldn't have to worry about a phosphate removal system.
Our UV is plumbed in-line on the return from one of our Pro III's, it's honestly not too complicated.
Eheim have recently bought out the Pro 3e in the UK, which is a heated version. There are 2 sizes, the 2076 for aquariums up to 400 litres and the 2078 for aquariums up to 700 litres. It may be worth enquiring with them if they are intending to bring this out in the US too.
Emma
Our UV is plumbed in-line on the return from one of our Pro III's, it's honestly not too complicated.

Eheim have recently bought out the Pro 3e in the UK, which is a heated version. There are 2 sizes, the 2076 for aquariums up to 400 litres and the 2078 for aquariums up to 700 litres. It may be worth enquiring with them if they are intending to bring this out in the US too.
Emma

East of the Sun, West of the Moon.

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